Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

A Road Trip Through Italy and a Primer on White & Black Truffles

abaker — Thu, 30 Nov 2023 21:37:02 +0000

A Road Trip Through Italy and a Primer on White & Black Truffles abaker Thu, 11/30/2023 - 16:37 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/urbani-header.jpg.webp?itok=F99Ce1MC November 30, 2023

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

As the CEO of 91��߹, I always have my eyes, ears and taste buds open to find new educational partnerships. Coincidentally, my family vacation plans recently played a key role in forging our newest partnership with Urbani Truffles. Urbani was founded in 1852 near Perugia, Italy, and has grown into the world’s largest distributor of fresh truffles, as well as a developer of a range of consumer products and truffle recipes that use truffle species.

In October, my wife and I were vacationing in Italy and had the chance to visit Urbani’s birthplace in the small town of Sant’Anatolia di Narco, which is near Perugia, in the Italian province of Umbria. We were the guests of Urbani’s CEO, Olga Urbani, the entrepreneurial third-generation leader of the company.

All of this leads to this article for 91��߹’s blog, where I will try to give you an overview of the category of white and black truffles and discuss Urbani's process for how to find truffles. As for the accompanying photos, many were taken during our day with Urbani in Umbria.

Olga Urbani, Company CEO and Rick Smilow at Urbani Headquarters

What are Truffles?

Botanically speaking, truffles are fungi belonging to the Tuber genus. Truffles complete their entire life cycle underground, in symbiotic association with trees, typically oak or poplar.

What are the Main Varieties of Edible Truffles?

There are several varieties of edible truffles, and each one has a particular season of availability. The most well-known and highly sought-after include:

Black Truffle (Tuber melanosporum): The black truffle, also known as the Périgord truffle, is one of the most famous and prized truffle varieties. It is commonly found in regions of France, particularly in the Périgord region, as well as in Spain and Italy. The main season for black truffles is from November to April.
White Truffle (Tuber magnatum): White truffles are highly aromatic and are considered a delicacy. They are primarily found in the Piedmont region of Italy. The main season for white truffles is short, from October to December.
Burgundy Truffle (Tuber aestivum): This truffle variety, also known as the summer truffle, is found in many parts of Europe, including France, Italy and Croatia. It is typically available in the summer months, May through September.
Alba Truffle (Tuber uncinatum): Often referred to as the winter truffle, the Alba truffle is commonly found in the same regions of France and is available during the autumn and winter seasons, from October through January.

There are other areas of the world where truffles are found and developed into varying types of truffle recipes. In the United States, truffle species are found in the Pacific Northwest, particularly in Oregon. They have a different flavor profile compared to European truffles and are highly regarded by chefs and foragers who know how to find truffles in the region.

There is also a developed market for Chinese truffles. They are less expensive and less aromatic than their European counterparts but are still used in various truffle recipes.

These are just a few of the edible truffle varieties, and there are many more species and subspecies found around the world. Each type of truffle has its unique flavor and aroma.

How Do you Describe the Taste of Truffles?

Truffles have a distinctive, intense and complex taste that is highly prized by many chefs and consumers. Like oysters, aged cheese and fish sauce, truffles are in the fifth flavor profile — umami.

Black truffles have a deep, musky aroma with hints of garlic, chocolate and forest floor.
White truffles are prized for their intense aroma, which is often likened to garlic, shallots and a combination of spices. Their taste is more delicate compared to black truffles but still quite potent.
Burgundy truffles have a milder flavor compared to black and white truffles.
Alba truffles is similar in flavor to the black Perigord truffle.

Using gastronomic references, 91��߹ Los Angeles Campus President Chef Lachlan Sands describes the taste experience of eating truffles as combining the “umami richness of grilled porcinis, the flavor force and aromatic impact of Roquefort cheese and the refined elegance of an earthy Barolo wine.”

Related Pasta and Truffles Recipe: Fettuccine Alfredo with Truffle

Can Truffles Be Grown on Farms or in Greenhouses?

The answer is both yes and no. Agronomists have developed methods to cultivate some varieties of black truffles; mycorrhizal truffle seedlings are grown in greenhouses and then planted in orderly groves. After four to seven years, the truffles will fruit underground.

As for white truffles, so far, botanists, scientists and farmers have not been able to figure out how to cultivate or farm them.

White truffles have a symbiotic relationship with the roots of certain tree species, forming mycorrhizal associations. These associations involve the exchange of nutrients between the truffle and the tree, which is one reason why truffles are typically found near specific types of trees.

Out in the field truffle hunting.

How are White Truffles Found?

There is history and allure around the annual autumn search — in the wild — for white truffles, mostly in the Alba region of Northern Italy. White truffles are typically found in deciduous forests, often near the roots of specific tree species like oak, poplar and hazelnut trees. They are found by trained truffle hunters, known in Italy as “trifolao,” and their dogs, which are usually specially trained truffle dogs such as Lagotto Romagnolo or Springer spaniels.

The hunting process for how to find truffles is for the hunter and their dog to venture into truffle-rich areas, where the dog, using its keen sense of smell, identifies the location of the truffles underground. The dog indicates the presence of a truffle by scratching or digging at the soil surface above the truffle. Once the truffle's location is identified, the truffle hunter carefully digs around the truffle using a small spade or trowel. It's essential to be cautious during this process to avoid damaging the truffle.

White truffles are extremely delicate and susceptible to moisture and heat. After being unearthed, they are gently brushed to remove excess soil and cleaned of any debris. They are then stored in a container with paper towels to maintain their freshness and aroma until they are quickly sold to specialized distributors, like Urbani.

This hunt has evolved into a “seasonal side hustle” for many Italians who know how to find truffles. During the fall, it is estimated that over 70,000 Italians become local truffle hunters. From year to year, successful hunters often try to keep the location of where they found their valuable commodity a secret.

What do Truffles Typically Cost?

The cost of truffles can vary widely based on several factors, including the type of truffle, their availability, the time of year, their quality and the region in which they are sold. Here's a general idea of the price range in 2023:

White truffles are some of the most sought-after and costly types used in truffle recipes. Prices can be extremely high, typically ranging from $2,000 to $4,000 or more per pound. The cost of white truffles can fluctuate significantly based on availability and demand.
Black truffles, particularly the Périgord variety from France, are also expensive. Prices can range from $800 to $2,000 or more per pound, depending on the quality and the time of year.
Burgundy truffles, or summer truffles, are more affordable than black or white truffles. Prices often range from $300 to $800 per pound.
Oregon truffles are more budget-friendly than their European cousins and generally range from $100 to $400 per pound.
Chinese truffles are the least expensive truffles. Prices often range from $50 to $150 per pound.

Truffle prices fluctuate due to factors such as the time of the year, the quality of the truffles and market conditions. Prices are typically highest during the peak of truffle season due to limited supply and high demand. Truffle products, such as truffle oil, truffle salt or truffle-infused sauces are more affordable ways to incorporate flavor into truffle recipes without the high cost of fresh truffles.

Currently (end of 2023), white truffle prices are higher than usual because of an unusually hot summer in Italy, followed by an autumn drought, and an increasingly shrinking woodland habitat where the truffles are found.

Pasta with black summer truffles.

What are Some Popular Culinary Applications of Truffles?

Truffles are a savory delicacy in the culinary world and are typically used in small quantities to enhance the flavor of various dishes.

Some of the popular uses of white and black truffles include:

Pasta and Truffles: One of the most classic and popular ways to enjoy white truffles is by shaving thin slices over fresh pasta such as tagliatelle or fettuccine. The heat from the just-cooked pasta releases the truffle slices’ aroma, infusing the dish with a rich, garlicky flavor.
Scrambled Eggs: White truffles can be shaved onto scrambled eggs, creating a luxurious and aromatic breakfast or brunch dish. The earthy, garlicky notes of the truffle complement the creamy eggs perfectly.
Risotto: Many truffle recipes involve white truffles that are grated or shaved over a creamy risotto, adding depth and complexity to the dish. A simple preparation with arborio rice, butter, Parmesan cheese and a touch of truffle is a true delicacy. The risotto can be substituted out for mashed potatoes for a similar, simple preparation that highlights the flavor of the truffles.
Carpaccio: Thin slices of raw beef or other meats or fish can be topped with shaved black or white truffle, or drizzled with truffle oil.
Chicken and Game: Black truffles are a fantastic accompaniment to poultry and game meats. Some meat and black truffle recipes call for truffles in stuffings for chicken or turkey, or as a topping for roasted or grilled game meats like duck or venison. In France, there is a tradition of inserting shaved black truffles under the skin of roast chicken.
Foie Gras: Foie gras, a rich duck or goose liver, can be made with small bits of black truffle to increase the indulgent flavor.
Butter: White truffle butter is a preparation that combines butter with bits of white truffle and truffle oil. It can be used as a condiment to enhance the flavor of bread, meats or vegetables.
Olive Oil: Truffle oil is typically olive oil that is infused with truffles. Though pasta and truffles are a classic pairing, truffle oil can also be drizzled over a variety of dishes, including salads, pizzas or grilled vegetables, to add a truffle aroma and flavor. Notably, in the last decade, there has been a growing use of chemically-produced truffle oil. It’s what you might find on truffle fries at a national chain restaurant — it doesn’t offer the same taste and olfactory sensation as truffle recipes that use real truffles.
Sauces: White or black truffles can be infused into sauces like béchamel or cream sauces, adding depth and a rich, earthy flavor. These sauces can be served with various dishes, including meat or pasta.
Cheese: Black truffles can be used to flavor cheeses, such as Brie or Camembert, by placing a slice of truffle between layers of cheese and allowing them to meld. In Italy, it’s also common to find Pecorino cheese that is infused with bits of black truffle.
Sushi or Sashimi: High-end sushi and sashimi restaurants may offer truffle-topped creations, using fresh truffle slices to enhance a dish's flavors.
Desserts: Some creative chefs even make truffle recipes for desserts, such as truffle-infused chocolate ganache, truffle ice cream or truffle honey drizzled over panna cotta.

Due to their intense flavor and aroma, white truffles are best enjoyed sparingly and with dishes that allow their unique characteristics to shine in the fall season such as a simple preparation of pasta and truffles.

A fresh truffle and truffle slicer at Funke restaurant in Los Angeles.

What are Some Current American Menu Items that Feature Truffles?

Truffles are a prized ingredient in gourmet cuisine. Many high-end restaurants around the world feature truffle recipes that showcase their unique flavor and aroma. This fall at Restaurant Daniel in New York City, guests can order a supplemental dish with fresh white truffles: either pasta and truffles or risotto and truffles. Appetizer-sized portions are $125 and entrées are $185. At Acquerello in San Francisco, diners are offered a special $495 truffle tasting menu. In Chicago, the famed Italian restaurant Spiaggia is offering guests truffles shaved tableside onto any dish, five grams for $80.

Keep in mind that the availability of truffle dishes may vary by restaurant and region, and they are often offered as seasonal or special menu items due to the limited availability of fresh truffles. These truffles recipes exemplify the versatility of truffles in various culinary creations and the way they can elevate both savory and sweet dishes.

Tip: For those of you who want to order truffles at home, Urbani will rush you a half-ounce for $159 and 1 ounce for $299. Chefs, restaurants, home cooks and even kings and queens around the world turn to Urbani for the gastronomic pleasures of truffles.

Ingredient Exploration

Add new comment

Four 91��߹ Classmates On Their International Externships

ablustein — Wed, 02 Mar 2022 17:03:09 +0000

Four 91��߹ Classmates On Their International Externships ablustein Wed, 03/02/2022 - 12:03 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/international%20externships%20at%20ice%20header.jpg.webp?itok=4nI06L5i 91��߹ President Rick Smilow (center) and Chef-Instructor Stephen Chavez (left) with the 91��߹ externs What it's like working in kitchens across Europe March 2, 2022

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

Four classmates in the 91��߹ Los Angeles Health-Supportive Culinary Arts program landed externships in four lauded kitchens around the globe.*

In many of 91��߹’s programs, after on-campus training ends, an industry externship is planned. These externships are completed around the United States, most frequently near our campuses in New York and Los Angeles. Externships overseas are much less common due to state regulations, particularly in New York. So, during a late 2021 visit to our 91��߹ Los Angeles campus, I was pleased to learn that four students in the same Health-Supportive Culinary Arts class were heading off to international externships — with three of the four restaurants having a Michelin star!

The backgrounds of these four women students and the stories of how they found and chose their externships is both interesting and inspiring.

Pursue your culinary dreams at 91��߹.

Robin Erler

One-Michelin-Starred Cookies Cream, Berlin

Robin has a BBA in International Marketing from Baruch University, and has been a branding and non-profit marketing executive. As a student of 91��߹’s Health-Supportive Culinary Arts program, “I was immediately captivated by the story of Cookies Cream,” Robin says about planning her externship.

Robin Erler

“[Cookies Cream first opened in 2007], when there were no recipes or rules for a vegetarian fine dining restaurant in Berlin. They collaborated with farmers, using old knowledge of ingredients with modern techniques. I was attracted to the team’s energy, the joy they find in what they do and the way they talk about it. Even from across the world, I knew these were my people,” she says.

This enthusiasm was reinforced by the restaurant’s Chef, Stephan Hentsschel. Prior to going to Germany, Robin asked Chef Stephan if she should learn, read or watch anything in particular. He gave the most freeing response: “Forget what you know and come with an open mind and heart.”

She did just that. And now one of Robin’s goals is to “collaborate with farmers, chefs and artists that have reverence for the earth, and believe that every interaction contains within it the possibility of deep connection.”

Olga Purlington

One-Michelin-Starred Cail Bruich, Glasgow, Scotland

Olga, a Michigan native and Michigan State University graduate, spent many years in the automotive industry, working for General Motors and Mercedes-Benz financial services. Notably, while working in the car world, she also made the time to train as a vegan raw food instructor.

Olga Purlington

Just as Robin had never been to Germany, Olga had never been to Scotland. “I had visited 74 countries and lived and studied in three,” Olga says. “I had never been to Scotland but heard wonderful stories about the history, nature, culture and people there. Learning [the] local food (organic in most cases) and experiencing new culture seemed like a perfect way for me to fulfill my externship.

Looking ahead, one of Olga’s long-term goals is to have a culinary consulting career, focusing on Health-Supportive Culinary Arts.

Catherine Rivadeneyra Bello

One-Michelin-Starred Dill, Reykjavik, Iceland

Catherine looked into many options in Europe. “When I decided to change my career from the social media world, one goal was to stage at Michelin-starred restaurants,” she says. “That led me to contact different restaurants in Europe and other countries.”

Catherine Rivadeneyra (center-left) at Dill

One of them was Dill in Iceland, a country she fell in love with when she visited in 2021.

“One of the reasons I liked Dill was because of Chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason's ethos. He maintains the uniqueness of his dishes and flavors to his native land. I also like how he respects all the raw materials that come into the kitchen — they use everything, and everything is treated with the attention it deserves, which is extraordinary. My experience with Dill since I started reaching out to them was always positive. The sous chef David Málek was always helpful; his humanity helped me come here!”

Catherine is about to start work at Hiša Franko in Slovenia. Long term, she would like to open her own restaurant, but knows that a broad and dedicated path of further training is needed before doing so.

“For me, it is important to set my target to determine the steps I need to take to get where I want to be,” she says.

Katherine Cuzma

Leo, Bogotá, Colombia

Katherine has a BS in Biochemistry from Northern Arizona University and has worked in the floral and restaurant businesses in Hawaii. When it came time for her 91��߹ externship, she applied for a position at Leo because she was inspired by Chef Leonar Espinoza, recognized as one of the best women chefs in Latin America.

"I was very curious about her process of bringing local, indigenously venerable crops to the beautifully orchestrated fine dining experience," she says.

Katherine Cuzma

Katherine's goals are still in formation, but for sure, she is passionate about the health, social and cultural benefits of healthy food, and the negative impact that she feels industrialization and “big agriculture” have on those goals.

“Food is an outlet in which we have the capacity to heal our world in almost every sense, economically, environmentally and physically,” Katherine says. “It is a goal of mine to be a steward of world health, and that starts and ends with food.”

International Housing

One may wonder: Where does one live during a foreign externship? Olga is in a short-term rental apartment. Likewise, Catherine found a short-term rental apartment in Reykjavik, 10 minutes walking distance to the restaurant. Though Robin had never been to Germany, she found an Airbnb near Cookies Cream in Berlin.

Culinary School Takeaways

After finishing their on-campus time at 91��߹, we asked the students for thoughts on the school and the Health-Supportive Culinary Arts program.

“It’s hard to say if I learned more about myself or cooking at 91��߹,” Robin says. “What I can say is, every day, my classmates and I were invited to show up as our whole selves and take responsibility for the choices, values and actions that shape our lives. My Chef-Instructors helped me gain an understanding of how to prepare health-supportive cuisine, and, importantly, they showed me that every decision we make moves us toward or away from health.”

Catherine spoke highly of her Chef-Instructors, too. “I met amazing people who became friends and taught me a lot,” she says. “Chef Nichole taught me to be organized, clean and strong in the kitchen. Chef Missy taught me how to be gentle with myself and always treat people equally. Chef Stephen cared for each of us and taught me that you can always be kind and loving to others in this career no matter the pressure. Chef Cyril taught me how to be creative and believe in myself, which for me is essential.”

Iceland, Scotland, Colombia and Germany — one never knows where an 91��߹ education will take you! These alumni are definitely on the way to finding their culinary voices. We wish them well and can’t wait to see what the future brings!

*These students are all a part of the Health-Supportive Culinary Arts program at The Institute of Culinary Education’s Los Angeles campus, which operates under the Bureau for Private Postsecondary Education law in California. The equivalent agency in New York State is much less receptive to international externships.

Health-Supportive Culinary Arts Externship Travel

Add new comment

Michael Lomonaco’s Steak and Seasoned Career Advice

aday — Tue, 13 Oct 2020 17:30:19 +0000

Michael Lomonaco’s Steak and Seasoned Career Advice aday Tue, 10/13/2020 - 13:30 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/portherhouse%20credit%20noah%20fecks.jpg.webp?itok=72t6CGMi Porterhouse steak photo by Noach Fecks The legendary New York City chef spoke to 91��߹ students and alumni at a virtual event while preparing a hanger steak at home. October 15, 2020

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

Michael Lomonaco is the executive chef and co-owner of two New York City restaurants, Porter House Bar and Grill and Hudson Yards Grill.

A native New Yorker with Brooklyn roots, he grew up in a household where cooking and vegetable gardening were some of his parents’ passions. In his teens and 20s, Michael’s passions were artistic, but not culinary arts. First it was photography and that led to acting on stage and screen till age 27.

He studied culinary arts at Brooklyn Technical College and got an incredible post-graduate education at Le Cirque, working under acclaimed chefs Alain Sailhac and Daniel Boulud. Chef Michael, like other chefs of his generation, became proficient in the style of New American cooking, and he eventually became the executive chef at the famed 21 Club.

In 1997, that led to his assignment as executive chef and director of Windows on the World, on the 107th floor of the World Trade Center’s North Tower in downtown Manhattan. He turned it into one of the highest grossing restaurants in America, three years in a row, but as some of you know, it’s the most famous restaurant that was destroyed in the 9/11 attack. Chef Michael only survived because he was in the building’s lobby getting his glasses fixed when the first plane hit.

Chef Michael Lomonaco photo by Noah Fecks

Fast forward to 2006, when Chef Michael became the executive chef and owner of Porter House in the Time Warner Center. That year, Esquire named it one of America’s best new restaurants, and it has developed a reputation of excellence. In 2017, Grub Street declared it the "absolute best steakhouse" in New York.

In 2020, Chef Michael introduced Hudson Yards Grill at the monstrous mall of the same name. Forbes called it a “perfect American brasserie” with “something for everyone,” and the New York Post said the burger would put the new mega-complex “on the map.” Along the way, Chef Michael has combined his talent for acting with his culinary skills. He hosted a show called “Michael’s Place” for three years on the Food Network and “Epicurious” for the Travel Channel. He has also appeared on TV with Julia Child, Anthony Bourdain and David Letterman as well as on the “Today” show and “The Chew.”

I have known Michael for more than 20 years, enjoyed his friendship, and admired his style and spirit. So, it was a pleasure to interview him via Zoom for 91��߹ students and alumni. I used our talk as a chance for me and others to learn more about the world of beef and steakhouses.

Aging Beef

I asked him about the difference between dry aging and wet aging. He explained that for beef, dry aging takes place in a controlled, refrigerated, humid environment at temperatures around 34-38 F. With wet aging, the piece of beef is placed in a Cryovac bag and stored at similar temperatures. With dry aging, flavor is enhanced because (1) moisture evaporates, which concentrates the remaining flavor, and (2) enzymatic aging. Enzymes break down the meat’s connective tissue, which results in a more tender product. But one of the issues with dry aging is that a given piece of meat can lose up to 20-30% of its weight. So for the chef who bought the meat at a certain price per pound, there is an economic consideration to letting your prize protein evaporate and shrink.

I learned there are variations in how long chefs and restaurants will dry age beef. With dry aging, Chef Michael targets 28 days. He pointed out that the famed French chef Alain Ducasse ages beef for only 21 days. After a certain amount of time, like 60 or 70 days, the piece of beef will develop a certain “funk” aroma that is too strong for most people. But some customers like it, and for a steakhouse, having steak dry aged for over 50 days is sometimes the basis for a nightly special. Porter House sources USDA prime from Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors, which ages steak for 21 to 60 days.

Côte de boeuf double cut rib eye at Porter House

Kobe Beef vs Wagyu

Another topic was the difference between Kobe beef and wagyu beef. The basic answer is simple: Kobe is a place (a city) in Japan, and wagyu is a breed of cattle (bred near Kobe). Notably, the translation of the word wagyu is “Japanese cow.”

On Eat This, Not That, Sodexo Executive Chef Todd Brazile says that wagyu beef quality is evaluated in four categories: brightness and color, firmness and texture, marbling and quality of fat. “You can expect wagyu beef to be more tender and juicier than standard beef, with a nice buttery flavor. Quality wagyu has marbling, the streaks of fat that run throughout beef, within the muscle and not just around the outer edges.” he says.

The highest quality Japanese wagyu beef is very expensive: At auction, cows can sell for as much as $30,000 versus a typical American cow, which sells for around $1,500. There is an “American-style” wagyu that is a crossbreed between American angus and Japanese wagyu. Chef Michael has both options on his menu at Porter House, and he pointed out that because the Japanese wagyu is a “very rich (and expensive) dish,” it’s not uncommon for several guests to share a 12-ounce wagyu portion as part of the meal.

Prime Beef

Of course, in America, higher quality beef usually falls in the USDA category of prime beef. A cut of beef is considered prime when the cows have several months of grass feeding after being grain-fed, and a certain level of marbling is achieved. Only 2-3% of all the beef in America is graded as prime. Chef Michael points out that the prime beef he sources at his restaurants is antibiotic-free and hormone-free.

Hanger Steak

Michael was at home for our conversation, cooking a hanger steak to demonstrate an example of a delicious and less common cut. Anatomically, the hanger steak comes from the short plate on the underside of a cow. Each cow only has one hanger steak so it has never been easy or likely to have the cut merchandised in a butcher shop or supermarket. In fact, the hanger steak is also known as the butcher’s cut because traditionally it was a leftover cut of the cow that the butcher would have a hard time selling.

Study cuts of beef and butchery in Culinary Arts.

Learn as Much as You Earn

“I loved food and cooking, but I had no professional experience,” Chef Michael reflected on his career change from acting to becoming a chef 34 years ago. “I got myself an education. That education in culinary arts and hospitality put me on the right path.”

He advised culinary students on externships and moving on through restaurants. “You choose the job as much as the job chooses you. You give them everything you have everyday so that you can learn and maximize the experience for yourself,” Chef Michael explained. “It’s important to commit yourself to a restaurant. I don’t think you should move until you’ve learned everything that restaurant has to teach you.”

As you develop, Chef Michael advises, “Cooking is a discipline. It starts as a skill, it turns into artisanship (you become an artisan at it), and then at some point you can break through and become a skilled and talented creator of food. You never stop learning. To this day, I challenge myself at work in cooking and in management.”

One of Chef Michael’s interesting points of view is that writing a menu is akin to writing a movie script. He said in a script, the writer introduces characters, and while each one of them is different, it’s important that they interrelate well and collectively make a good story (or cast). In the same way, the different sections of a great menu should interrelate well and collectively enable a great meal.

True or False

I knew from earlier conversations that Chef Michael has cooked for a range of celebrities, including athletes, musicians and politicians. When I asked if it is true that he cooked dinner (at separate occasions) for Bruce Springsteen, The Who, and Crosby, Stills & Nash, he answered yes. But he would not offer up any stories or anecdotes from those nights saying instead that “he treats all customers like VIPs,” and that in his mind, the biggest VIPs were “the ones who come to your restaurant regularly, like once a month or more.”

Reopening Outlook

At present, both of Michael’s New York City restaurants remain closed due to the pandemic. Being inside large, mixed-use complexes like Time Warner and Hudson Yards prevents outdoor dining, takeout and delivery, but Chef Michael is targeting early November to reopen both restaurants. At that point, hopefully, New York City will have increased the allowable seating capacity from 25% to 50%, and at that level, opening could be economically viable. As Chef Michael related, he is looking forward to once again cooking with his teams and practicing the art of culinary hospitality that he so enjoys.

Pursue an art you enjoy with 91��߹'s career training programs.

New York City Chefs Guest Lectures Demos & Lectures Interview Meat Culinary Education

Add new comment

Holiday Gift Guide: Winter Cookbook Releases

aday — Mon, 10 Dec 2018 19:57:01 +0000

Holiday Gift Guide: Winter Cookbook Releases aday Mon, 12/10/2018 - 14:57 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/istock%20cookbook%20header.jpg.webp?itok=1ee_tO2c 91��߹ alumni released a variety of cookbooks this fall, which are topping gift guides and inspiring hands-on recreational classes. December 11, 2018

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

This fall and early next year, several 91��߹ alumni are coming out with interesting and unique cookbooks. In honor of the holidays, we're highlighting five recent releases for cooking, baking and gifting inspiration.

The first book, “Korean Home Cooking: Classic & Modern Recipes” is from Chef Sohui Kim (Culinary/Management, ‘02) who owns The Good Fork and Insa with her husband, Ben, in Brooklyn. Sohui told me that the idea for “Korean Home Cooking” was born out of Insa. After years of cooking at fine-dining restaurants and The Good Fork (decidedly not a Korean restaurant), she wanted to dive wholeheartedly into authentic Korean cuisine. “Insa is a Korean barbecue restaurant, but there are many more elements of Korean cuisine that I wanted to showcase,” Sohui said. “In the book, I do that by highlighting banchan (small side dishes), which I think is the heart of Korean cooking, as well as homey soups and stews. The recipes get more complex and technical with dishes such as blood sausage, Korean fried chicken and even homemade Spam (which is very popular in Korea)!”

Next, there is “Emily: The Cookbook,” by Chef Matt Hyland (Culinary, ‘04) and his wife and business partner, Emily. They own the Emily and Emmy Squared restaurants in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Nashville. Their success is based on stellar, flavorful updates or re-creations of classics, from Detroit-style pizza to modern comfort food, like fried chicken and a duck confit sandwich with a pretzel bun. When asked what are some of the things he learned writing the book, Matt said, “I realized that most of my cooking comes from great childhood memories of food: mostly takeout and food at the beach. The process of creating a book was hard, but very personally rewarding. I think back when we first opened the original Emily in Clinton Hill, a cookbook was such a far reach for a tiny, 40-seat restaurant. Now almost five years later, we have a book!”

Third, “I Am a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook” is by Chef Miguel Trinidad (Culinary, ‘07) and Nicole Ponseca who are the owners of Maharlika and Jeepney in New York City. Their book reflects the menus in their restaurants and then goes much further. “During my travels and R&D, we discovered a whole different type of Filipino cuisine that was not well-known and in some cases almost undiscovered,” Chef Miguel said. “The food from the region of Mindanao is highly influenced by Muslim culture. What does this mean? A big part is the spicing, where in the north you would use soy sauce for a classic adobo, in Mindanao, you have an adobo dilaw that uses turmeric and sometimes spices like cinnamon, cloves and star anise. This was a surprise to us, so we dove deeper, and you’ll see recipes from the region of Mindanao in the cookbook.”

The fourth book is extra special because it’s by two members of the 91��߹ community: husband and wife, Marge Perry (a recreational instructor) and David Bonom (Culinary, ‘93). Their book, “Hero Dinners: Complete One-Pan Meals That Save the Day,” comes out in late March (available for pre-order now) and presents more than 100 delicious and complete meals, which can be made in a simple skillet of sheet pan. Recipes include sheet pan harissa chicken with quinoa and cauliflower, and Spanish chuck eye with sweet onion, olive, roasted pepper, green beans and almond-parsley rice. Chef Marge is best-known as a food columnist for Newsday and teaches recreational classes on food media at 91��߹.

“Our book is inspired by our students at 91��߹, who have willingly shared their questions, concerns and stress points in the kitchen,” Chef Marge said. “Students have shown us and told us what they want and need to cook, what helps and/or confuses them about recipes, and what makes them able to prepare really great food with confidence.”

Finally, Creative Director of Genius at Food52 Kristen Miglore (Culinary, '08) released "Genius Desserts: 100 Recipes That Will Change the Way You Bake" in September. The sweet sequel follows her award-winning "Food52 Genius Recipes: 100 Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook," which was a New York Times bestseller. Kristen says she has another Genius title in the works for 2020.

One thing is for sure: These books reflect 91��߹ alumni who have “found their culinary voice.”

Meet some of these chefs in our Cook-the-Book series of recreational classes in which participants make a recipe from a cookbook with the author then take a copy home. You can share the interactive experience with a gift card this holiday season, and see more gift ideas among fall 2018 cookbook releases.

Cookbooks Recreational Classes Alumni New York City Cooking

Add new comment

From Reindeer to Blinis: Exploring Finnish Cuisine in Helsinki

ohoadmin — Thu, 14 Sep 2017 11:30:03 +0000

From Reindeer to Blinis: Exploring Finnish Cuisine in Helsinki ohoadmin Thu, 09/14/2017 - 07:30 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Helsinki_5.jpg.webp?itok=5RE5oGOo September 14, 2017

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

This past August, some of my family members and I went on a Baltic cruise. In every port and country where we stopped, I was curious about the local cuisine. We had taken several tours, but it was only in Helsinki, Finland that we took a dedicated food tour. Here’s a “road trip report” of what I learned - and in many cases ate — in this lively seaside city and country capital.

Based on its geographic location and history, the influences on Finnish cuisine come from the east and the west. From the west (western Europe and Scandinavia) come dishes and ingredients like pickled fish, hard bread, cheese and smoked meat. From the east (Russia and Ukraine) come foods like blinis, sauerkraut, curd cheese, Karelian pastry, sour milk and mushrooms. Perhaps one of the most unique local foods I tried was poro — that’s reindeer.

In August, during our visit, the seasonal specialties included crayfish, chanterelles, apples and wild duck. In September, the seasonal favorites include Baltic herring, hare, lingonberries and a seafood specialty called vendace — a small whitefish that’s rolled in rye bread crumbs, quickly fried and served in a bun. As our trip was in the summer, the local greenmarkets we passed early in the morning were overflowing with wonderful-looking produce and fruit.

Our Helsinki food tour was led by Heather Domeney, a native of Tasmania who moved to Helsinki after marrying her Finnish husband. Her tour route and the accompanying food depends on the time of day you start. We had limited shore leave time, so we began promptly at 8:00am, beginning the tour with a tasting of traditional breakfast foods.

The first stop was a small bakery named Kanniston Leipomo. Here we sampled a Karelian rice pie, which is a small, football-shaped rye pastry with rice porridge in the middle. At the second stop, Cafe Kuppi & Muffini, we tasted barley porridge with toppings of our choice. As shown in the photo, I chose strawberry, rhubarb compote and butter. Heather explained that items like these, along with ham and salami, constitute a typical Finnish breakfast. Standard American breakfast items like scrambled eggs are not so common.

Our third stop was a famous department store called Stockman, which opened in 1862. They have a lower-level food hall that’s a sort of Finnish Harrods, the renowned London department store. It was interesting to see the mix of fresh foods, breads and produce available.

First, we headed to the seafood department, where Heather arranged a smoked and cured salmon tasting. As for grocery items, some of the unique items were munavoi (a mixture of butter and cooked eggs) and porosalami (reindeer salami).

When it comes to beverages, Finland has some things to talk about. First, the average person drinks 12 kilograms of coffee per year — the highest rate in the world. The Finnish produce several interesting indigenous beverages like lakka, a cloudberry flavored liquor, and sima, which is a variation on mead and flavored with lemons and raisins.

Like the U.S., Finland experienced a period of prohibition from 1919 to 1932. After prohibition, the government decided that all alcoholic beverages with alcohol content higher than 4.7% would be sold in a state-run retail chain named Alko. Today, there are about 355 of these stores throughout the country. While we didn’t vist Alko, we did stop at a small, independent beer retailer (where all beers were 4.7% alcohol or less) and a brewery-restaurant called Bryggeri.

At Bryggeri, we enjoyed a tasting flight of beers made on the premises, along with traditional accompaniments of grilled sausage and sauerkraut. The most traditional of the beers we tasted was Lammin Sahti, which is made with barley and rye malts, and has next to no carbonation — both odd and interesting on first taste. Our group agreed that a Brooklyn- or Portland-based modern beer aficionado would feel right at home in Helsinki.

Our next stop was Vanha Kauppahalli, a classy and classic portside covered food market in operation since 1889. Heather arranged a quick tasting of local cheeses at a shop with a name that was rich in vowels – Juustokauppa Tuula Paalanen. As we made our way through Vanha Kauppahalli, what impressed us most was the Nordic seafood, particularly the range of smoked salmon, crayfish, prawn salads and other seafood specialties. What’s more, just outside the hall was a seasonal outdoor food market. There, the offerings were global street food like kebabs and chicken sandwiches, plus local fare like reindeer meatballs.

Though time did not permit us to visit more restaurants, I gleaned additional Helsinki restaurant intel from Heather and my own research. The first restaurants opened in Helsinki in the early 19th century. The most notable early eateries were Kappeli, Kamp and Kaivohuone.

According to the Finnish Hospitality Association, in 2014, there were 1,271 restaurants and 52 hotels in Helsinki. By 2015, the country was home to four Michelin-starred restaurants. As for a traditional restaurant entrée, most sources agree that a good place to start would be fried Baltic herring with mashed potatoes and beets.

After a quick but in-depth exploration of Helsinki’s cuisine, I can say there is much great food and drink to try in Finland’s capital. By the time we pulled out of the port, I already decided I should go back…with more days to eat!

All photography by Rick Smilow. It's time to embark on your culinary adventure - learn more about 91��߹'s career programs.

Travel Food Culture

Add new comment

Food (Waste) for Thought: How the Industry is Tackling Food Waste

ohoadmin — Fri, 14 Apr 2017 12:45:17 +0000

Food (Waste) for Thought: How the Industry is Tackling Food Waste ohoadmin Fri, 04/14/2017 - 08:45 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Contemporary-Masters-026-72dpi.jpg.webp?itok=oyUNthT7 April 14, 2017

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

The largest appetite for food in America is found at our landfill sites. That is where much of the estimated 70 billion pounds of food waste in our nation goes each year. Internationally, it’s estimated that one-third of food produced worldwide, worth around US $1 trillion, gets lost or wasted in food production and consumption systems.

The United Nations Environment Programme “waste facts” include:

In the United States, 30-40% of the food supply is wasted, equating to more than 20 pounds of food per person per month.
Nationally, organic waste is the second highest component of landfills and the largest source of methane emissions (a greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming).

Meanwhile, up to 14% of Americans have food insecurity and globally, millions of people are at best, malnourished and at worst, starving. With all of the issues that the world faces today, food waste may seem like a benign problem but it’s linked to much larger global problems and presents a great opportunity to help address hunger and economic insecurity both today and in the future. Food enters the waste stream at many links along the chain of food production and consumption.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that 40-50% of food waste comes from consumers and 50-60% from businesses. One of the major causal factors in America is that quality standards at the retail level are largely based on appearance. Growers, farmers, supermarkets and retailers throw out produce with minor blemishes believing that those products won’t sell. Fortunately, there are companies of all sizes addressing this issue.

Here are a few to take note of:

Imperfect is a California-based company that sources from growers across the state and delivers boxes of imperfect and discounted produce, via a subscription service, directly to customers’ doors for $12-$18 per box. The startup’s goal is to repurpose produce that retailers and distributors reject while helping to generate extra revenue for farmers and making local produce more affordable.

Another good example of a company dedicated to effective waste management of produce is Snact, in Kent, England. Snact buys unwanted produce from British farmers that is either “too big, too ugly or simply too abundant.” They blend this unwanted fruit into a smoothie of sorts, then dry the mix into snackable “fruit jerky.”

Snact Team (photo credit: Snact)

One of 91��߹'s major suppliers, Baldor Foods, is gaining national attention for its leadership in tackling food waste. They are leading the charge on finding innovative uses for typically discarded food scraps and “reshaping perceptions of what is truly worthy of going in our landfills.” Their food scraps, such as vegetable and fruit trimmings, have been rebranded as "SparCs" and are now being sold to a wide range of customers including restaurants (for their stocks), juice companies and animal feed producers. Some of the world’s largest companies are participating in food waste initiatives.

Walmart found it expedient to dump an entire carton of eggs if one was cracked, rather than replacing the damaged egg with one of equal freshness. Now the company is testing a program that uses a laser system to etch individual eggs with product information, enabling workers to easily substitute a new egg with the same specs. If adopted nationally, Walmart projects that the system could save roughly five billion eggs a year from premature scramble. Chefs across the country are putting into practice the “no food waste” ethos.

Dan Barber, chef-owner of the acclaimed restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns and founder of the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in Pocantico Hills, NY, made waves when he launched

wastED: an organization that hosts pop-up events devoted to the theme of food waste and re-use. Asked about his upcoming wastED pop-up, Barber explained, "Let's take the trend for juicing. What happens to all the pulp that's leftover in the juice-making process? It gets thrown away. So we've taken it and repurposed it into a vegetable burger — a juice pulp cheeseburger in fact.” ("New York’s Biggest Food Waste Chef Is Bringing Pulp Burgers to London," Munchies, Feb. 24, 2017.)

Meanwhile, on the west coast, chefs Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson are developing a fast-food chain called Loco’l. Unlike the typical fast-food joint, Loco’l will serve more wholesome foods while cutting costs by minimizing food waste — integrating what would otherwise be scraps (such as meat trimmings and veggie ends) into the recipes for regular menu items.

For its part, 91��߹ is committed to supporting the movement to eliminate food waste. In fact, we've partnered with The New School to host the innovative Zero Waste Food conference on April 28-29, bringing together visionary chefs like Massimo Bottura and Missy Robbins to explore ways to minimize food waste. Sustainability is one of our most significant long-term challenges. Food professionals have the opportunity to make an impact by creating more sustainable food networks.

Click here for more information on the Zero Waste Food conference — and buy your tickets today!

Food Culture Future of Food Sustainability

Road Trip: The 2017 IACP Conference in Louisville

ohoadmin — Fri, 10 Mar 2017 17:00:35 +0000

Road Trip: The 2017 IACP Conference in Louisville ohoadmin Fri, 03/10/2017 - 12:00 91��߹ President Rick Smilow’s Recap March 10, 2017

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

The weekend of March 4th, I had the pleasure of attending the annual IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) conference in Louisville, KY. 91��߹ has been a part of IACP for over 20 years. The group’s membership is particularly focused in the food media and culinary communications arena.

If you’re looking for an annual gathering of food editors, authors, recipe developers, food bloggers, test kitchen executives, culinary entrepreneurs, journalists and culinary experts, this is your place. I attended — for the 17^th time in 20 years — with Maureen Drum Fagin, 91��߹’s Director of Career Services. We counted at least 24 91��߹ alumni or former 91��߹ team members in attendance, several of whom were leading educational sessions at the conference.

Maureen and Rick with Jenna Helwig and Kristin Donnelly

That included SeeFood Media President and founder Jamie Tiampo (Culinary Management, 2006) with the workshop “How to Bid, Plan and Distribute Digital Food Videos,” and food journalist and cookbook author Jody Eddy (Culinary Arts, 2007) was part of a panel discussion entitled “Is What’s Mine Yours? How to Avoid Cultural Appropriation in Your Writing.”

One of the highlights of the conference was the awards ceremony (primarily for cookbooks), which was held Sunday night at the Louisville Palace Theatre. I am happy to announce that Chef Vivian Howard’s (Culinary Arts, 2003) book Deep Run Roots: Stories and Recipes from My Corner of the South won in four categories, including Cookbook of the Year. Vivian is the Head Chef and Co-Owner of Chef & the Farmer in North Carolina, as well as the host/star of the PBS series, A Chef’s Life, for which she has won a James Beard Foundation award and a Peabody Award.

chef/restaurateur/TV personality Vivian Howard

Other 91��߹ alumni we caught up with include Jenna Helwig (food editor, Parents Magazine), David Bonom (recipe developer/food writer), Alison Tozzi Liu (editorial director, James Beard Foundation), Adeena Sussman (author/journalist), Kristin Donnelly (author of Modern Potluck: Beautiful Food to Share and formerly Editor at Food &Wine), Emily Peterson (instructor in NYU’s Food Studies program), Trish Lobenfeld (food writer/recipe developer), Juli Roberts (test kitchen manager, Rodale), Diana Andrews (food editor/test kitchen manager for Fine Cooking Magazine) and Julie Hartigan (writer/recipe developer).

Of course, when you are in Louisville, you are in bourbon country. Friday, as a supplement to the main conference, I attended a special one-day class called “Moonshine University” at the Distilled Spirits Epicenter, which has a small-scale yet sophisticated spirits production operation on-site.

I now have a general understanding of how bourbon is made: the significance of heat and alcohol boiling points and a grasp of terms like “mash bill,” “congeners,” “sweet vs. sour mash” and a “number 3 char.” Typically, their classes run for several weeks and attract prospective artisan-spirits makers from around the world.

Moonshine University

While I was at Moonshine University, Maureen was on a moving bourbon tour of Louisville. On her tour, Maureen chatted with two 91��߹ alumni that hadn’t been on our radar: Tess Bosher, the Culinary Specialist in Hamilton Beach’s test kitchen, and Stacy Basko, a freelance recipe developer.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the food. Several of our meals were walk-around tastings and so we got to try bites from notable Louisville restaurants such as Milkwood, Decca and Proof on Main. It’s a matter of debate whether Louisville is in the northern part of the South, or the southern part of the Midwest, but either way, there are menu items — like grits, pickled vegetables and rabbit – that you’d be less likely to find in New York City.

A tasty example was the sandwich served at the Sunday brunch at Harvest: house-smoked bologna, pimento cheese, a sunny-side-up egg and arugula. One memorable meal inspired by another country’s fare was 91��߹ alum Gina Stipo’s (Culinary, 1998) pop-up dinner “At the Italian Table.”

We enjoyed Gina’s Italian dinner on Thursday night with David Bonom and his wife, Newsday columnist and visiting 91��߹ instructor Marge Perry. Gina’s spent much of the last 12 years in Italy, teaching and leading food tours. When she came back to the US, her goal was to open an intimate and delicious Italian restaurant —The Italian Table achieves that goal.

Eating there is like being invited to a warm and friendly Italian dinner party — where you don’t know most of the other guests! With just two large tables for 20 or so guests, her restaurant is open four nights a week and has a four-course pre-fixe menu that changes daily. The first (and only) seating of the night starts promptly at 7:00pm.

Gina Stipo's "At the Italian Table" Dinner

Some former 91��߹ team members were present as well. I enjoyed spending time with Anne McBride and Todd Coleman, who both held communications or marketing positions at 91��߹ in the past decade. Anne and I co-wrote the book, Culinary Careers: How to Get Your Dream Job in Food. She also has collaborated with 91��߹ Pastry & Baking Arts Chef Instructor Kathryn Gordon on her cookbooks Les Petits Macarons and Les Petit Sweets.

After 91��߹, Todd took a position at Saveur magazine, where he eventually became Executive Food Editor. Beyond all the 91��߹ names, one of the most interesting speakers at the conference was Ali Bouzari, who recently published a new book, Ingredient: Unveiling the Essential Elements of Food. His book focuses on the concept that there are eight “mother ingredients” (proteins, water, minerals, etc.) and that if a cook understands these concepts, their intuition and ability to execute any recipe or technique will be enhanced.

I’m told Ali has done a TEDTalk on this subject and the book, and based on what I heard in Louisville, I bet it’s great! All in all, it was a terrific conference. We caught up with 91��߹ alums, explored delicious domestic foods and drinks (with some foreign flavors thrown in too), and were inspired by great culinary conversations.

Click here for more information about IACP.

Culinary Education Special Events Institute of Culinary Education

STREETS International Vietnamese Cooking Benefit

ohoadmin — Fri, 06 Dec 2013 19:47:04 +0000

STREETS International Vietnamese Cooking Benefit ohoadmin Fri, 12/06/2013 - 14:47 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/STREETS%20International%20Vietnamese%20Cooking%20Benefit_1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=1FeJCCUh December 6, 2013

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

On November 18, eighty people—including several food industry VIPs—gathered at 91��߹ for a Vietnamese cooking party to benefit STREETS International.

91��߹ has admired and supported STREETS' efforts since the organization's inception in 2009. Based in Hoi An, Vietnam, STREETS provides culinary and hospitality career training to poor and disadvantaged Vietnamese young adults between the ages of 17 and 21. Many of the students who are chosen to participate in STREETS' 18-month program are coming from orphanages and have limited opportunities for future employment. But with the aid of the career training, which includes a year of English language lessons, these young men and women now have the potential for long careers in Vietnam’s growing hotel, tourism, and restaurant sector. See below photos of the hands-on cooking party, which featured traditional Vietnamese ingredients:

Too many chefs in the kitchen? Not this night at 91��߹!

Guests learning about their cooking assignment.

Happy guests left to right, 91��߹ alum Gail Simmons (Top Chef / Food & Wine), Nilou Motamed (Editor-in-Chief, Epicurious), Christina Grdovic (Publisher, Food & Wine) and Pam Norwood (Food & Wine).

Group waiting for the heat to rise includes STREETS board member Ruairi Curtin, President of Bua Bar Group (in tie).

The cooking efforts did result in a delicious three-course meal.

The seared rare duck breast with caramel glaze and braised duck leg with soy and spices.

Neal Bermas (left) and Sondra Stewart (right) presenting Mark Maynard-Parisi, Managing Partner of the Blue Smoke group at Union Square Hospitality Group, with a certificate of appreciation.

The organization's founders, Neal Bermas and Sondra Stewart, have long been friends of 91��߹. The two used to live in New York City, where Neal was an instructor in our Culinary Management program and Sondra worked in the field of mergers and acquisitions. On behalf of STREETS and the staff at 91��߹, we would like to thank everyone who made this very special fundraiser a success.

To find out more or make a donation, visit: http://www.streetsinternational.org/welcome-streets-international.html

Special Events 91��߹

Add new comment

Inspiring Alumni: Executive Chefs and Restaurant Owners

ohoadmin — Wed, 04 Dec 2013 22:02:21 +0000

Inspiring Alumni: Executive Chefs and Restaurant Owners ohoadmin Wed, 12/04/2013 - 17:02 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Inspiring%20Alumni-%20Executive%20Chefs%20and%20Restaurant%20Owners_1400x680-photocredit%20Joule%20Restaurant.jpg.webp?itok=BKKvAPXp December 4, 2013

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

When possible, I make the enjoyable effort to have a meal in the restaurants that 91��߹ alumni have opened as executive chef and/or owner. I don't have to travel far to do this in metro New York. But in late August, I made some trips to visit alumni spots in Seattle, Philadelphia, and Washington, DC—all in the space of 12 days! That lead to the idea to have a long distance “roundtable” interview with the three 91��߹ alumni chef/owners: Joncarl Lachman (‘02), Tiffany MacIsaac (’02), and Rachel Yang (’01).

91��߹ President, Rick Smilow

In 2013, Chef Rachel Yang’s Seattle restaurant Joule ranked 9th on Bon Appétit’s “Best New Restaurants” in America list—an honor that was soon followed by a spot (two notches up) on Seattle magazine’s similar shortlist. Yang, along with chef/husband Seif Chirchi, was also acknowledged by Bon Appétit as a pioneer in Korean-American fusion cuisine, which they feature at Joule's sister restaurant Revel.

Executive Pastry Chef Tiffany MacIsaac’s recipes have been featured in Food & Wine and her restaurant Birch & Barley, which she runs with her husband, Executive Chef Kyle Bailey, has been recognized by top critics as one of Washington, DC’s must-eat destinations. A James Beard Award semi- finalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2013, MacIsaac oversees the dessert program for all of Neighborhood Restaurant Group’s eateries which, in addition to Birch & Barley, include: Tallula, Eat- bar, Vermilion, Evening Star Cafe, Columbia Firehouse, Rustico, and Buzz Bakery.

Chef Joncarl Lachman is also no stranger to accolades. His Chicago restaurant Vincent was named one of Chicago magazine’s “Best New Restaurants” in 2011 and his HB Bistro was featured in the prestigious Michelin guidebook. This year Lachman opened his highly anticipated Noord, a "Dutch-American" eatery in Philadelphia, the city where he was raised. We asked these three impressive graduates to give some perspective and insight as to how they each have blazed a successful trail through what can be a very challenging career path. Here’s what they had to say:

Chef Joncarl Lachman

How do the foods and flavors of your childhood fit into your current menu?

Joncarl: I grew up in Southwest Philadelphia surrounded by Italians. When I would go to my friends’ homes, their mothers would be making lasagna and meatballs, etc. I would return home to my own Dutch mother’s boiled cabbage and meat. Needless to say, at the moment, it was not a culinary inspiration. Little did I know I would end up in South Philly again surrounded by Italians, but this time it is me, and not my mother, making Dutch food!

Tiffany: I’m from Hawaii and I find that I tend to gravitate toward fresher, more acid desserts,—often incorporating passion fruit, pineapple, and other tropical fruits into my menu.

Rachel: Where I was from and my Korean heritage, definitely influenced the menu at Joule and Revel. That’s what makes our restaurants so unique.

At what point in your life did you know you wanted to become a chef?

Tiffany MacIsaac: When I turned 18 I moved to New York where my first job was as a hostess at Michael’s New York. I had never really experienced food as anything other than a way to fill your stomach. After a few months of working, they invited me in to dine in the restaurant. I fell in love with everything. But the moment I knew I wanted to get into the kitchen was when I tried the beef cheeks. It blew my mind and within a week, I was trailing in their kitchen.

Rachel Yang: It was only after college that I decided to cook. I had an idea of what it is like being a chef and a restaurateur but never thought that I would be one someday.

Chef Rachel Yang

What is the process like to open a second, or third restaurant, versus the first?

Rachel: After a while, you can totally visualize the space and how the flow should work, even looking at the floor plan. You can construct a restaurant from every staff member’s point of view, whereas in the beginning, you can only see the restaurant from a cook’s point of view.

Joncarl: I have to admit, it almost becomes addicting. I was petrified when I made the first big step to open my own place. My second restaurant, Vincent, was not an easy experience, largely due to the fact that we brought-in other partners. With Noord, while it was certainly a leap of faith, I had more confidence.

Tiffany: I’d like to say that it gets easier with every opening. But after two restaurants, two bakeries, a doughnut shop and a brewery—I can say that each one presented its own challenges. Every time you do it, you are analyzing how to be better, faster, and smarter. You constantly push yourself to think of new ways to do things. Which certainly keeps you on your toes.

What are some of you “signature” dishes and were you surprised when they became so popular?

Rachel: One of our most popular dishes at Joule is our spicy rice cake. It’s really a great combination of the traditional rice cake dish from Korea and other very non-traditional items. It was my personal favorite when we put it on the menu, but I wasn’t sure how people would perceive it since it’s pretty darn spicy. We haven’t had any complaints that it is too spicy and, surprisingly, it’s been the most popular dish on the menu.

Tiffany: I started doing a cookie plate with kid classics and, four years later, it still hasn’t left the menu. Things like the Hostess cupcake, oatmeal cream pie, and Snickers bars—in a more grown-up version—are very appealing to customers. I knew they would be liked, but I didn’t think they would become such a big thing that they would never leave the menu.

Chef Tiffany MacIsaac

Are there some ideas you thought would be a hit and turned out to be a flop?

Tiffany: I can never seem to get desserts with rice pudding to sell. People tell me all the time how much they love it, but I can’t seem to get them to buy a composed dessert featuring it.

How important—or not—are organic ingredients to your menu?

Rachel: It’s certainly important, but sometimes not the priority. We get organic and/or local ingredients whenever we can, but some ingredients are just really hard to come by or too expensive for us to serve at a decent price point.

Joncarl: I had the opportunity to work under Nora Pouillon, the “queen of organics,” at Restaurant Nora in Washington, DC. While it was a fantastic experience, it certainly affects a restaurant’s price point. We do our best to use locally farmed ingredients. If it is organic, it is a plus, but not a necessity.

Composing a new dish is sometimes simple and other times complex. Do you have a framework or set process when creating a new menu item?

Rachel: Sort of. I often have 2-3 key ingredients that I want to use and try to find an interesting way to connect them. Or I sometimes, I have a dish in mind and see a couple things I can change that would give it our signature stamp. At the end, I look for a “wow” factor in each dish, something that makes it stand out from others.

Tiffany: It’s not like I’ve got a sheet with boxes I check off as I’m developing a dessert. But, if all the components span several textures and temperature and you are able to make sure all the flavors taste distinctly like what they are supposed to, you are at a good starting point. I hate when a dessert doesn’t taste like its core components. Like a green apple sorbet that doesn’t have the right tartness or a ginger marshmallow with no bite. Keeping the balance of salt versus sweet will help the dessert from becoming cloying.

As an estimate, what percentage of your customers are regulars?

Rachel: There are quite a few regulars at both restaurants. Especially at Revel, we have a decent number of customers who come for lunch every week.

Joncarl: I would say 20 percent and growing. I love cultivating regular guests. It is honestly like having friends over to my home for dinner.

Tiffany: That’s interesting. At the restaurants, we strive for regulars that come in every couple of weeks. At the bakeries, we are trying to make people come in 4-5 times a week. I’d say 25 percent of Buzz bakery customer’s start or end their day here 3- 4 times a week, which is great.

What advice would you give to our culinary students on how to make the most of their first jobs out of school?

Tiffany: Find a chef whose food you are passionately in love with and give them everything you have—they’ll likely give a lot back to you. Don’t ask how much money you’ll make, or how long the day will be. That doesn’t matter at the beginning (or ever for that matter). The money will be low and the days will be long, but you aren’t done learning just because you finished school. Think about the hours as an investment in your future. And never leave your job in under 14 months. It just looks bad on a resume.

Rachel: Especially for the first restaurant job, you really need to put your head down and work. It sounds very boring and passive, but there is a reason why someone is asking you to clean a case of mushrooms or to cut quarts of shallots, brunoise, everyday. It takes time to master simple tasks. As you get used to doing this kind of work and can do it fast, your eyes will simply open up to what else is going on in the kitchen.

Joncarl: Keep your eyes and ears open. You know so much less than you think you do. Volunteer for as many events as possible. Be respectful. Get to know as many people in the industry as possible.

America seems to be experiencing a cocktail craze. Why do you think that is, and is mixology important at your restaurant?

Joncarl: I am incredibly annoyed by trends in general. I think the only other trend that annoyed me more was bacon, bacon, bacon....yawn!

As the restaurant scene continues to grow in your market, it must be more difficult to find—and retain—great staff. What methods do you use to deal with this challenge?

Rachel: The first thing that we want to make sure to do when we hire a cook is to see what the reason is that they want to work at our restaurants. We want to make sure that they have a very strong personal interest in working here. They need to love the food that we cook and be proud of where they are.

Joncarl: We have had the good fortune of keeping employees pretty long term. The type of environment I try to cultivate is very “familial.” When team members are emotionally invested in what we are doing, they tend to stay longer.

Tiffany: It is hard, but as a chef, you need to always be looking for good people, then give them opportunities to keep learning and growing.

If you could travel to a foreign country to learn about its cuisine, what country would that be?

Joncarl: One of my life goals was to see as much of the world as possible before I got serious about opening my own restaurants. I have been to 35 countries and spent some time living in the UK and Spain. I think my favorite place to experience the food was Singapore, and it would be great to re-visit and do more street stall eating. The next trip is back to Amsterdam, to catch up on the burgeoning modern Dutch cuisine that is happening in neighborhoods like the Jordaan and dePijp.

Tiffany: I’ve always wanted to go to Thailand. My husband and I thought we’d go there for our honeymoon, but we unexpectedly got job offers in DC and instead of honeymooning, we opened a restaurant—the opposite of a honeymoon.

Rachel: Maybe China. It would be great to learn about all regional Chinese cuisine and go beyond typical “Chinese flavor” that we are so used to in America.

What do you do to achieve a better or acceptable “work-life” balance?

Rachel: I have two little boys, three and a half years old and one and a half. They totally keep me going after a long day at work.

Joncarl: I think when you are a chef/owner the restaurant actually is your life—though it is good to take a mental health day every once in a while.

Tiffany: (Laughing) Is that a trick question? We still haven’t figured that one out yet. I guess I’d have to say that marrying the chef helps. Our work is our life, so I guess if we work all the time, then we balance it pretty well!

Interview Alumni

Add new comment

IACP 2013: San Francisco

ohoadmin — Tue, 16 Apr 2013 20:43:21 +0000

IACP 2013: San Francisco ohoadmin Tue, 04/16/2013 - 16:43 April 16, 2013

By Rick Smilow — 91��߹ CEO

Last week, four members of the 91��߹ New York team attended the International Association of Culinary Professionals' (IACP) annual conference in San Francisco.

The organization, founded in 1987, boasts more than 3,000 members in 32 countries, ranging from chefs and culinary instructors to food media professionals, cookbook authors, culinary entrepreneurs and food policy advocates. It was a pleasure to see several dozen 91��߹ alumni in attendance and, in particular, at least seven 91��߹ alumni serving as speakers or resources at the event.

Our team enjoying the IACP host party at San Francisco's Ferry Building

One of the most anticipated aspects of the conference was the annual awards, acknowledging a range of achievements, from exemplary cookbooks to humanitarian efforts. We are proud to report that 91��߹ won the 2013 Award of Excellence for “Cooking School of the Year”, our fourth IACP award in the last ten years.

Kate McCue, Director of Recreational Programs accepts the "Cooking School of the Year" award on behalf of 91��߹.

Among the other award winners was 91��߹ alum Maxime Bilet, who took home a cookbook award in the “Food & Beverage: Technical Reference” category, for Modernist Cuisine at Home. Max was also on the opening day keynote panel with Chef Thomas Keller and author Peter Kaminsky, discussing “Dirt, Digital and the Future of Food”. Interestingly, the panel moderator was Ann McBride, former 91��߹ Communications Director and co-author of my Culinary Careers book.

Maxime Bilet, Thomas Keller and Peter Kaminsky

Among the other conference highlights was an intimate after-party for 91��߹ alum and friends at Two Sisters Bar and Books, a new bar/bistro opened by 91��߹ alumni Mikha Diaz and Michal Cecconi. Guests included famed author/PBS food expert Joanne Weir and test kitchen expert Suzanne Barr.

Joanne Weir, Kate McCue, and Mikha Diaz

The conference had a strong food media focus, and we were very excited to see 91��߹ alumni leading the discussion. Notably, Jamie Tiampo (SeeFood Media) presented “The New World of Web TV”, Catherine McCord (Weelicious.com) asked “Can Video + Cookbook = Profit?”, Sarah Copeland (Food Director – Real Simple) explored our “Permission to Post, Print or Pin” and author Jody Eddy shared her secrets for "How to Really Get Into a Restaurant" as a writer.

91��߹ alumni Sarah Copeland and Catherine McCord

Of course, a trip to the bay area would not be complete without lots of good eating and exploration of up and coming food trends. Saturday, I took a unique culinary tour of Oakland, where we met a range of the neighborhood’s newest and most innovative chefs, who spoke to us over a beer at the Linden Street Brewery. Highlights of the tour included visits to artisanal producers Blue Bottle Coffee, Two Mile Wines and City Slicker Farms.

Blue Bottle's Oakland facilities; The next generation of Oakland chefs

Back in San Francisco, two restaurants won over the “91��߹ critics”: Rich Table and Bar Tartine. In particular, the opportunity to meet the latter's young, innovative chef, Nicolaus Balla, was an exciting view into the local, sustainable food movement and the creative minds that will lead the culinary field in the years to come.

91��߹ Special Events

Rick Smilow — 91����߹ CEO

A Road Trip Through Italy and a Primer on White & Black Truffles

What are Truffles?

What are the Main Varieties of Edible Truffles?

How Do you Describe the Taste of Truffles?

Can Truffles Be Grown on Farms or in Greenhouses?

How are White Truffles Found?

What do Truffles Typically Cost?

What are Some Popular Culinary Applications of Truffles?

What are Some Current American Menu Items that Feature Truffles?

Add new comment

Four 91����߹ Classmates On Their International Externships

Robin Erler

One-Michelin-Starred Cookies Cream, Berlin

Olga Purlington

One-Michelin-Starred Cail Bruich, Glasgow, Scotland

Catherine Rivadeneyra Bello

One-Michelin-Starred Dill, Reykjavik, Iceland

Katherine Cuzma

Leo, Bogotá, Colombia

International Housing

Culinary School Takeaways

Add new comment

Michael Lomonaco’s Steak and Seasoned Career Advice

Aging Beef

Kobe Beef vs Wagyu

Prime Beef

Hanger Steak

Learn as Much as You Earn

True or False

Reopening Outlook

Add new comment

Holiday Gift Guide: Winter Cookbook Releases

Add new comment

From Reindeer to Blinis: Exploring Finnish Cuisine in Helsinki

Add new comment

Food (Waste) for Thought: How the Industry is Tackling Food Waste

Road Trip: The 2017 IACP Conference in Louisville

STREETS International Vietnamese Cooking Benefit

Add new comment

Inspiring Alumni: Executive Chefs and Restaurant Owners

Add new comment

IACP 2013: San Francisco