Business of Food

Michelin Announces the 2024 California Guide Picks

abaker — Thu, 08 Aug 2024 15:36:14 +0000

Michelin Announces the 2024 California Guide Picks abaker Thu, 08/08/2024 - 11:36 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/michelin-guide-california-2024.jpg.webp?itok=ZxpqCf4J August 8, 2024

By 91��߹ Staff

On Monday, August 5, Michelin released the 2024 edition of its California red guide. There are now 85 starred restaurants in the Golden State, 10 of which are seeing stars for the first time.

New additions to the two-starred restaurants include Chef Justin Cogley’s Aubergine in Carmel-by-the-Sea, new Nordic-inspired Sons & Daughters in San Francisco and Chef Jordan Kahn’s contemporary stunner Vespertine in Culver City.

The City by the Bay also sees three new one-starred restaurants: Kristina Liedags Compton and Rachel Sillcocks’s hip Hilda and Jesse; John Wesley and Julianna Yang’s Kiln; and Chefs Serena and David Fisher’s sleek 7 Adams.

Holbox, Chef Gilbert Cetina’s Mexican eatery in Mercado La Paloma, Chefs Yoshitaka Mitsue and Shingo Kato’s Uka and Jordan Kahn’s Meteora (where 91��߹ Culinary Arts alum Keita Suzuki serves as Sous Chef), all in Los Angeles, also received one Michelin star. R | O-Rebel Omakase in Laguna Beach was also awarded a Michelin star.

Congratulations to all restaurants acknowledged in the 2024 edition of the Michelin Guide California. View the full list here.

Awards and Honors

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Can a Restaurant Do Well and Do Good at the Same Time?

ajohnson — Mon, 01 Jul 2024 19:06:54 +0000

Can a Restaurant Do Well and Do Good at the Same Time? ajohnson Mon, 07/01/2024 - 15:06 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/MAD%20panel%20header.JPG.webp?itok=BTgOXoBv July 2, 2024

By Cory Sale

Cory Sale is the Senior Public Relations Manager at 91��߹ and an alumna (Culinary Arts '22). She enjoys writing about seasonal produce almost as much as visiting NYC’s greenmarkets, where she finds new flavors to add to ice cream. When she’s not cooking (or eating), you can find her on the frisbee field chasing down a piece of plastic.

The MAD Foundation, a non-profit organization founded by René Redzepi, the Chef and Owner of world-renowned restaurant Noma, recently hosted a panel discussion questioning if a restaurant can do well (meaning be profitable) and do good (meaning do right by their staff, community and the planet) at the same time.

Sharing their experiences and ideas were panelists Mark Bittman, food journalist and founder of Community Kitchen; Edward Lee, chef of 618 Magnolia and co-founder of The LEE Initiative; and Erin Wade, author and founder of Homeroom restaurant.

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So, can a restaurant do well and do good? All of the panelists said they believe it is possible, but acknowledge the road to get there isn’t easy and is filled with obstacles.

Here are some highlights from the conversation.

What does “doing good” look like for a restaurant?

When asked if he could make a restaurant that did everything right, Bittman said it would have to be a nonprofit. He’s in the process of creating Community Kitchen, a non-profit restaurant that aims to have positive community relationships and a sliding scale for payment, which would entail offering a discount to low-income customers and a tax on high-income customers.

Chef Lee’s idea of success added a focus on sustainability. He envisioned a future with zero gas and plastic pollution — or at least significant waste reduction.

Wade added equity and fair working conditions to the mix. Her hope is to see more restaurants led by people of color and by women. She said she wants businesses to focus on being collaborative, cooperative and meaningful, which, in practice, looks like employees being treated well, with open book policies in place to promote transparency within the business. She also supports restorative justice instead of discipline.

The list of ideal ways to "do good" is nearly endless. Some additional points mentioned by the panelists are:

Proper work-life balance for employees
Reducing a business' carbon footprint
Advocating for social justice
Providing physical accessibility to all customers
Meeting environmental sustainability goals

The big question is how to implement these progressive changes while still making a profit.

Learn More: Restaurant & Culinary Management at 91��߹

Chef Lee acknowledged that restaurants have run the same way for over 80 years and trying to get independent businesses to implement change is hard and takes time. For an owner to confront the challenge of doing right by their employees, community and the environment is an enormous task.

Chef Lee's non-profit, The LEE Initiative, tackles one of these issues at a time. They first create models using data, which allow restaurant owners to see how these systems work, with the intention for business owners to adopt the changes if they can. If everyone addresses a different problem, or even just part of one, Chef Lee envisions this knowledge and experience continually being shared and built-upon.

The panelists also emphasized the importance of thoughtful conversations, like this panel, and the power of using writing to create change.

Who can help restaurants?

Wade advocated for increased government regulation and support in areas from healthcare to education and environmental standards. She said if the US government offered universal healthcare for each citizen, then restaurants and other employers wouldn’t have to. She also cited wooden cutlery’s prominence in Europe after the E.U. banned disposable plastic cutlery as an example of how the U.S. government could take a stance to create and enforce environmental standards.

Wade also suggested that increased education around financial literacy would help anyone trying to start their own business in the restaurant industry and otherwise.

What can consumers do?

A restaurant owner in the audience expressed frustration with their experience trying to do well and good. As part of a bigger capitalist system, they cited how their impact would be a fraction of what McDonald’s impact would be if they both stopped purchasing plastic straws. And in the same vein, the owner spoke about how consumers aren’t motivated to go to good restaurants, as they want to go to "cool" restaurants.

Chef Lee’s response? You can’t lecture, yell or shame consumers or business partners into doing good. You need to find an incentive, not a disincentive. And you have to start somewhere.

As an example, Chef Lee shared an anecdote:

Realizing they had an excess of plastic spice containers, The LEE Initiative asked their supplier if they could return the plastic containers to be reused. The supplier declined. Chef Lee’s team contacted multiple spice companies to see if any would create a new system to reduce plastic. After multiple conversations, they found one small company open to working on their terms.

While this isn’t moving the needle right now, Chef Lee says he plans to promote what this spice company is doing and hopes other restaurants will take note. And in the future, he says their old supplier may start losing accounts, wonder why and then rethink their business practices.

When it comes to consumers, the panelists agreed that people should support the restaurants doing good in the industry and promote them.

Big thanks to MAD for such an interesting discussion!

Read MAD's official recap of the panel

Special Events Demos & Lectures Guest Lectures Restaurant Management

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Discover 5 New LA Restaurants to Dine In This Summer

abaker — Thu, 27 Jun 2024 19:50:20 +0000

Discover 5 New LA Restaurants to Dine In This Summer abaker Thu, 06/27/2024 - 15:50 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/los-angeles-restaurants-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=muY4L_IE June 28, 2024

By Abbe Lewis

Abbe Lewis is a writer, editor, Emmy nominee and extreme nacho enthusiast with over a decade of experience in food and beverage media. Always on the move, Abbe can be found running long distances on the weekends to new restaurants or her favorite hangouts.

We made it — we’re officially in the summer season, which brings long summer days with ample opportunities to dine out.

The City of Angels has seen its fair share of new kids on the block. Here are five new restaurants in LA to check out this summer.

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The Benjamin Hollywood

The founders of the streetwear brand The Hundreds are expanding into the restaurant industry. Ben Shenassafar and Bobby Kim's new restaurant The Benjamin opened on June 25 in Hollywood. Housed in a 1920s art deco building on the corner of Melrose and Formosa, The Benjamin is “a contemporary homage to classic restaurant hangouts,” per the restaurant’s website.

Executive Chef Johnny Cirelle drives the menu, which sees items like deviled eggs, roasted branzino, and The Benjamin Burger, which features a house blend of meat, American cheese, hickory sauce, grilled onion and house pickles. (It’s enough to make even the biggest burger connoisseur come a-runnin’.) Cocktails, too, by Jared Meisler are not to be missed.

Marelle

The people of Santa Monica are now privy to another all-day eatery with the opening of Chef Raphael Lunetta’s Marelle in the stunning Sandbourne hotel.

Open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., the food at Marelle is by no means fussy, showcasing local and seasonal ingredients. Breakfast items include lemon ricotta pancakes with blueberry butter and shakshuka while the dinner menu includes dishes like roasted mushroom arancini and pan-roasted Ora King salmon with white wine-brown butter emulsion.

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Leopardo

Chef Joshua Skenes of Saison fame is giving Angelinos what they want with the wildly anticipated opening of his Leopardo. Housed in the former La Brea Bakery space on S. La Brea Avenue, the wood-burning hearth is at the heart of the restaurant, which delivers delicious pizzas that Chef Skenes and his team worked tirelessly to perfect.

Pies include a classic margherita and the “Hello Satan” with spicy tomato sauce, chile, salumi, wildflower honey, garlic and herbs. Other menu items on the dinner menu include ocean tilefish crudo, elk tartare and marro, wild boar parmesan and whole-grilled whitefish “in the Lord’s water.”

Sirena at The Georgian Hotel

California-meets-Coastal Italy at this stunning new restaurant with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. Sirena, which is owned by BLVD Hospitality, is open daily for brunch and dinner. Menu items from Chef David Almany include buttermilk pancakes and an Italian Benedict with rosemary ham for brunch, while dinner options include sheep’s milk ricotta mezzaluna chicken Milanese and jumbo scallops alla piccata.

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Burgette

Summertime is for burgers, and if you haven’t made your way to Chef Sean MacDonald’s Burgette in Santa Monica, now’s the time to make moves.

As the sister restaurant of Bar Monette (which slings pizza pies) Burgette brings forth burgers of all kinds. Burgers include the restaurant’s namesake, a smash burger of wagyu beef, cheddar, Parisian sauce and pickles, as well as a salmon belly smash burger with gribiche aioli. A selection of cheese, charcuterie and small plates like fries and haricot verts are also on offer.

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All About Aging Wine

abaker — Tue, 07 May 2024 18:45:46 +0000

All About Aging Wine abaker Tue, 05/07/2024 - 14:45 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/wine-aging-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=dbbgc09i And whether or not you can try it at home May 7, 2024

By Cory Sale

Saving a bottle of wine from a special occasion literally bottles up some of that joy for a future date. It can be a wine served at one’s wedding or a vintage from a child’s birth year. But is aging wine really as simple as leaving a bottle on the shelf?

With my wedding coming up, I’m thinking of how to extend the special day for years to come. Dean of Wine Studies and Master Sommelier Scott Carney, who teaches Intensive Sommelier Training at 91��߹’s New York campus, helped me dive into this ancient art to understand the benefits of aging wine and some tips to keep in mind during the process.

Related Read: Know Your Wedding Cake Math

Why Age Wine?

“Wine is thought to gain in complexity through its life, shedding the immediate attractiveness of youthful fruit and bringing about secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas that develop through the slow but sure ingress of oxygen through the bottle’s cork,” Scott says.

Aging wine doesn’t preserve the exact flavors and aromas of a wine, instead, it’s an opportunity to see how the wine changes from exposure to oxygen.

“One reason wine became so famous was its ability to change, and often improve, over time,” Scott says. "One of the joys of collecting wine is to, say, buy a case of wine and check in on it through its evolution. I like to say that when you've opened one and believe the wine has reached its 'peak,' that’s when you throw a dinner party, [and] open six bottles. But you also want to keep a bottle or two to witness its dignified decline as the wine wanes into old age."

How to Age Wine

Don’t just leave a bottle of wine on your shelf and call it aging. Scott recommends purchasing a wine refrigerator to have the most control over a wine’s storage conditions.

“A constant storage temperature of roughly 55°F with say 70% humidity is optimal for protecting a wine through its developmental stages.,” he says.

Even if you don’t have much space, Scott says there are small wine storage units available for apartments that can store 25-30 bottles.

As for how to physically store wine, Scott advises laying red and white cork-formatted bottles on their side. This will keep the wine in contact with the cork, ensuring that the cork stays moist, and does not dry out and shrink. Corks allow a very small controlled amount of oxygen to be exposed to a wine, which as Scott mentioned above, is a major part of the aging process. If a cork shrivels, you lose some of that control and the wine may over-oxidize.

Store bottles with their labels face up for easy identification, “but, more importantly in the case of red wines, any sediment precipitated over time will fall to the back side of the bottle and be decanted away from the wine that will be drunk,” Scott says.

Additional storage tips from Scott include avoiding placing the bottles around any bright lights as these rays can damage wine. He also notes that there shouldn’t be “any constant or even occasional vibration near the storage unit as the agitation can unduly act upon the wine’s development.”

Related: How to Choose a Wine Glass

Selecting Wines for Aging

Some types of wine are better suited for aging than others.

“Not all wines are intended to be aged,” Scott says. “Many are ‘drink the current vintage wines,’ [which]…are prized for their immediate attraction of fresh vivacity and fruity charm.”

This means many wines won’t benefit from aging. Though they won’t degrade after a year, these wines should be consumed within a reasonable amount of time.

One varietal that Scott says is traditionally good for aging is Cabernet Sauvignon.

According to Scott, when you want to age a wine, “you are looking for a structural dimension — a constellation of tannins, alcohol and acids — that forecast staying power. To simplify, Pinot Noir is a thinner-skinned grape than Cabernet. Thicker skins are where you find the tannins that would bring about aging capacity. So, while Pinot Noir is certainly ageable, it is not thought to be as long-lived as wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon.”

You can also ask your local wine store for a recommendation for a bottle that can benefit from aging.

How Long Should Wine Be Aged?

According to Scott, “Wines that are expected to improve over time are frequently given estimated ‘drink ranges’ by wine journalists.”

For example, a wine journalist may recommend consuming a specific bottle between 2030-2035.

“In this way, different wines have different drinking windows," Scott says. "These recommendations are rough estimates that first pre-suppose perfect storage and second are only educated guesses.”

The best way to fully evaluate wine is by opening a bottle to taste and smell the wine itself. Use the wine’s color, aroma and flavor to determine how it’s aged, or if it was aged past its prime.

“In the case of an aged red wine, one that is over the hill will have lost much of its ruby color and would appear garnet or brown. On the nose, the fruit would be dried out or disappeared with some vinegary notes and earthy sometimes fecal unattractive smells,” Scott says.

The topic comes up in 91��߹'s Intensive Sommelier Training course. Scott says that trying over-aged wines let students contrast the traits against well-aged, pure wines so they can learn to distinguish between the two.

A major takeaway from my conversation with Scott was the importance of caring properly for wine. While, I don’t think a wine fridge is in my future, many of the storage tips above are applicable to the wines in my home (which are currently standing upright, directly beneath a light). Thanks to his achievable, small changes, my storage setup will definitely be changing soon.

Want to Cook with Wine? Try our Coq Au Vin recipe.

Wine Intensive Sommelier Training Drinks

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What is Food & Beverage Management?

abaker — Thu, 08 Feb 2024 14:00:00 +0000

What is Food & Beverage Management? abaker Thu, 02/08/2024 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/food-and-beverage-management-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=m2PFzjB- February 8, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

Not every culinary career is destined for the kitchen, and many culinary school graduates pursue front-of-house positions, including those in food and beverage management.

Many students from both culinary programs and hospitality management programs go on to successful careers in food service management.

The Institute of Culinary Education also offers a Dual Diploma program, with a tuition discount offered when students pursue more than one course of study, such as Plant-Based Culinary Arts, Pastry & Baking Arts or Culinary Arts, plus a business-focused program such as Restaurant & Culinary Management.

What is Food and Beverage Management?

Food and beverage management involves the operation and administration of establishments such as restaurants, bars and hotels that provide food and drink services. Other businesses that have food service operations on site, such as hospitals, schools, churches or even corporate environments might also employ food and beverage managers.

Dr. Katie Chamberlain, Director of Online Education and Dean of Hospitality Management at 91��߹, says the primary functions of food and beverage management are multi-faceted.

“The goals are to efficiently deliver high-quality food and beverage services, optimize profitability, and enhance overall customer satisfaction,” she says. “The food and beverage management role encompasses various responsibilities including menu planning, procurement of ingredients, cost control, staff management, customer service and ensuring compliance with health and safety regulations."

What topics are typically taught in Food and Beverage Management programs?

“Food and Beverage Management programs cover a range of topics to equip individuals with the knowledge and skills needed for managerial roles in the hospitality industry,” Dr. Chamberlain says.

The Restaurant & Culinary Management program at 91��߹ encompasses topics that break down into nine primary core functions, including:

Concept Development and Menu Design
Culinary Marketing
Food Safety
Purchasing and Cost Control Supervision
Staff Management
Legal Issues
Service Management
Finance and Accounting
Beverage and Wine Management
Facilities and Design

According to Dr. Chamberlain, “These topics collectively provide a comprehensive understanding of managing food and beverage operations, from kitchen efficiency and culinary creativity to business acumen and customer satisfaction.”

Besides floor manager and general manager positions in a restaurant, bar or hotel setting, there are a number of food service management roles that specialize in a particular aspect of restaurant or hospitality administration, such as service director or beverage director, which can be lucrative career paths for Food and Beverage Management graduates. Additionally, many restaurant groups have higher-level food and beverage management roles whose function interacts with numerous properties within the parent company, such as director of operations, director of restaurants or director of bars.

Should aspiring chefs also study Food and Beverage Management?

Studying both food and beverage management and culinary arts is beneficial both for those who intend to pursue kitchen roles as well as those who intend to pursue management roles, as the functions of both are inextricably intertwined.

“Studying food and beverage management is crucial for aspiring chefs seeking to advance into leadership or managerial roles,” Dr. Chamberlain says. “This education provides essential business acumen, enabling chefs to contribute to menu development, pricing strategies and operational efficiency. Chefs with management skills are better equipped to enhance customer service, adapt to industry trends and pursue entrepreneurial opportunities.”

Culinary programs are obviously crucial for learning cooking techniques for those aspiring to be chefs, but those who will eventually go on to be executive chefs will also frequently be involved with the administrative and operational functions of their restaurants. Studying food and beverage management early also helps to signal ambition to prospective employers.

Do career changers with previous management experience still benefit from studying Food and Beverage Management?

Many people attend culinary school as career changers, whose previous experience might have already included various management functions. Even if a student has non-hospitality management experience, Dr. Chamberlain still recommends food and beverage management programs in most cases.

“Food and beverage management provides industry-specific knowledge, insights into culinary operations and networking opportunities,” she says. “This education [helps facilitate] a smooth transition into the dynamic culinary and hospitality sector, offering a deeper understanding of menu planning, customer service, industry trends, and regulatory compliance. Additionally, the program enhances leadership skills in the context of culinary operations, providing a unique and tailored skill set for managerial roles in the food and beverage industry.”

Related: How I Used My Culinary School Education Outside of the Kitchen

Beverage Management Restaurant Management Culinary School Hospitality Management

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Understanding Restaurant Food Safety

abaker — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 15:00:00 +0000

Understanding Restaurant Food Safety abaker Tue, 10/24/2023 - 11:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/food-safety-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=Y73XYFLt October 24, 2023

By Pamela Vachon

Keeping a clean workspace and the appropriate handling of various types of food are principles that are emphasized throughout culinary school, but they aren’t just common sense practices. Food safety also has legal and ethical implications if you plan to work in a restaurant or other foodservice setting.

“Food safety is fundamental to all areas of professional culinary arts,” says Lachlan Sands, President of the Institute of Culinary Education's Los Angeles campus. “From a philosophical perspective, we are asking our guests to trust us with something very personal. We are asking them to place their faith in us that the food that they are about to consume is safe and healthful.”

Restaurant food safety guidelines are emphasized throughout culinary school, and students who go on to work in restaurants or other foodservice settings should expect to deal with aspects of restaurant food safety throughout their careers.

“Whether you work in fine dining or fast food, the credo is always the same,” Chef Lachlan says. “Food safety is paramount.”

Here we explore several aspects of food safety in restaurants whether you are considering culinary school, already enrolled or just want to feel secure in the choices you make when dining out.

What is Restaurant Food Safety?

Restaurant food safety consists of various guidelines, maintained by both the national and state governments, that inform not only how food should be handled, but every aspect of cleanliness and hygiene when it comes to a professional food preparation environment. While food safety for restaurants has public health implications, these guidelines are also good practices when it comes to preparing food at home. Developing good habits where food safety is concerned is valuable for both professional chefs and home cooks alike.

Restaurant food safety guidelines fall into a number of different categories, including things such as handwashing, food storage, cooking temperatures, hot and cold holding parameters, equipment, infrastructure and even water requirements.

How is Restaurant Food Safety Taught in Culinary School?

Students will deal with issues related to food safety throughout their culinary school curriculum, from specific lessons that focus on restaurant food safety guidelines to the day-to-day practice of maintaining these guidelines.

“We discuss it in all forms,” says Chef Joshua Resnick, Lead Chef and Operations Manager for 91��߹ New York. “From personal hygiene and uniform to proper internal cooking temperature for proteins, and ways to prevent cross-contamination of different products.”

In addition to various cooking techniques, restaurant food safety guidelines will be some of the most important lessons that students are required to master in culinary school.

What Are Some of the Most Intuitive Guidelines When It Comes to Restaurant Food Safety?

Students will often begin culinary school with a decent idea of certain restaurant food safety principles just based on how they operate at home in the kitchen.

“Students know intuitively that you should wash your hands here and there, that raw food should not sit out, and that things that fall on the floor are potentially hazardous,” Chef Lachlan says. “There is no five-second rule.”

“I think that most students coming into the program know more than they think they know about food safety, especially in a post-COVID world,” Chef Joshua says. “Things like washing hands when walking into the kitchen, coughing or sneezing into the crook of your elbow and not touching your phone while cooking are all things we do normally."

Chef Joshua says students often start with at least an idea of proper internal cooking temperatures for certain proteins, whether that’s from reading recipes or learning from food media where cooking thermometers are often utilized.

What Aspects of Restaurant Food Safety Are More Difficult to Learn?

While certain aspects of food safety in restaurants can be intuitive, there are other aspects that can take students by surprise, or that may take longer to master when it comes to developing good habits. Even with intuitive things such as hand washing, “the stringency and frequency of the rules,” may be new to students, according to Chef Lachlan.

The steps to preventing cross-contamination, in particular, are more numerous than one might expect.

“I don’t think students are aware of just how much of what they do in the kitchen has one or multiple elements of food safety that goes into it,” Chef Joshua says. “Even the idea of fabricating a chicken: you have to ensure that you are working on a clean board that is safely anchored to the table, there is a container of sanitizer solution, a towel completely submerged in the solution while using gloves to handle the chicken before transporting it to your board in a vessel. Skipping any of those steps can lead to issues down the line, which is why we stress the importance of food safety all of the time.”

Chef Lachlan also notes the undoing of certain bad habits as being an area where students may struggle.

“Fighting your cultural tendencies, which usually has to do with family habits [can be challenging,]" he says. “Hand washing, cleaning vegetables, proper storage and everything else all have different rules at home. My mother, for example, used to thaw frozen ground beef on the roof of our house. Just because a dangerous habit works at home a few times a year does not mean it is safe when scaled up to hundreds of meals a day in a commercial environment. Also, you are less likely to be sued by family members if you make them sick; not so in a restaurant environment.”

Infractions of food safety regulations can not only lead to litigation but can also lead to restaurant closure, which isn’t a risk you should be willing to take with a restaurant or any foodservice business.

“The health department can close you instantly and severely damage your reputation,” Chef Lachlan says.

Is a Food Handler’s License Important for Food Safety?

Food safety regulations for restaurants and food handling licenses are different from state to state. (See here for a breakdown of different food safety certifications available by state.)

Not only is a food handler’s license important when it comes to restaurant food safety, but depending on your role it may be required.

“From a legal perspective it is required in most jurisdictions,” Chef Lachlan says. “From a business perspective, it is also important to learn how to keep your guests safe. We rely on repeat business and the day you make a guest sick is the day they don’t come back.”

Additionally, mastering food safety and pursuing certification can also be a savvy professional move on a student’s part.

“Every restaurant needs someone who is certified on-site at all times that the restaurant is open,” Chef Joshua says. “I always tell my students that if you can earn your certification before leaving school, it also shows future employers that you are dedicated to your craft, and can make you a more attractive candidate.”

Food Safety and Sanitation Food Handling

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Five Takeaways from Chef Markus Glocker

abaker — Tue, 19 Sep 2023 17:35:47 +0000

Five Takeaways from Chef Markus Glocker abaker Tue, 09/19/2023 - 13:35 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Rick%20Camac%20and%20Markus%20Glocker%20Header.jpg.webp?itok=3LDSWoEu September 20, 2023

By Hillery Hargadine

Hillery Wheeler Hargadine has been with 91��߹ since 2009 and is a graduate of 91��߹’s Restaurant and Culinary Management program. After over a decade with the Admissions team helping students to fulfill their dreams of enrolling in culinary school, she now enjoys profiling those same students in their new careers as Notable Alumni. In addition to alumni outreach, Hillery works on prospective student messaging and content. She currently lives in Toyko, Japan with her husband and son, and eats as much sushi and ramen as possible.

Markus Glocker, the former chef of the acclaimed Bâtard, and now the chef and owner of the ACE Hotel’s Koloman, stopped by 91��߹ to chat about how to make service run smoothly, the unexpected education that shaped his success and what he would do differently if given the chance.

If your Instagram algorithm is at all attuned to hot new restaurants in New York City, you’ve probably already seen dozens of photos of the salmon en croûte from Chef Markus Glocker’s hit restaurant, Koloman.

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An Austria native, Chef Markus has been a darling of the New York City food scene since the West Village gem, Bâtard, became an overnight success almost a decade ago, garnering a Michelin star every year it was open, and winning the coveted ‘Best New Restaurant’ category at the 2015 James Beard Foundation Awards.

In the years since leaving the now-shuttered Bâtard, Chef Markus spent time consulting and cooking for popular New York restaurants largely within the hospitality space. (Read: restaurants within hotels.)

After spending his childhood and teen years working in his family’s hotel restaurant in Austria, Chef Markus made his way through top-tier hotel kitchens in Munich, Berlin, Vienna and London. Once he landed at Charlie Trotter’s eponymous restaurant in Chicago, he felt he had found his place in the less-rigid American dining scene. It wasn’t long before he was running the show at Gordon Ramsay at The London hotel in New York and on the precipice of opening Bâtard.

Chef Markus’s most recent endeavor, located in NoMad’s ACE Hotel (in the space once occupied by April Bloomfield’s The Breslin), has barely been open a year and is already one of the city’s hardest-to-snag reservations. A glowing three-star review from Pete Wells in The New York Times last fall certainly did nothing to dissuade diners from flocking to the Parisian-Viennese hot spot.

Chef Markus recently stopped by 91��߹’s New York City campus to chat with 91��߹’s Executive Director of Industry Relations, Rick Camac, and impart some hard-earned wisdom to the next generation of culinary and hospitality professionals. Here are five takeaways from his visit.

Be Clear and Consistent

Whether it’s in the food on the plate, or managing your team, the key to smooth service is everyone knowing who is responsible for what, and respecting the system you set in place. According to Chef Markus, it starts with being very careful in hiring.

“First, be present when hiring, and only hire people [that you would want] if you were never able to fire them — if you do that, you’re going to have a chance to get the right person at the right station,” he says.

From there, he suggests letting people do their jobs.

For Chef Markus, that means respecting the management system you put in place. His sous chef or chef de cuisine have their own checklists, just like line cooks have a prep list each morning. This also includes pre-checking all the mise en place for that evening’s service.

”If there's something wrong…I actually go to my sous chefs and say, 'Did you check this?' And that's the way to manage…If you manage correctly, and you follow the steps, there are a lot of mistakes you can avoid during service,” Chef Markus says.

Understand Your Financials

While a passion and talent for cooking are the more celebrated elements of being a professional chef, it’s the business acumen that truly makes or breaks a career. Chef Markus credits the accountants from his first executive chef position with sitting him down and helping him actually understand a profit and loss statement (P&L).

“I'm very thankful still to this day that they did it because otherwise, I would not be in this place right now,” he says. “[Keeping a restaurant financially sound] while still preserving the quality of food and quality of service. That's the game.”

This mentality is why Chef Markus continues to have monthly, weekly and daily calls with his team to review financials.

“When you know your menu and your revenues and your costs in general, you take those numbers and you put it in real-time,” he says. “What’s the actual weight of that beef tenderloin? The ‘real time’ is the prep cook downstairs, unsupervised, that’s actually cutting 50 grams more out of it than we allotted for.”

Want to learn how to read a P&L? Find out more about 91��߹’s Restaurant & Culinary Management program

Know Your Brand

Once good food and solid financials are covered, you still have to answer the question “What is this restaurant about?”

According to Chef Markus, this is where branding comes in, especially for Koloman.

“To position a restaurant which is inspired by 1890 to 1923 can easily be stuffy," he says. "To make that cool, and fun and ‘now’ was the exercise. And I think we did a good job.”

For Koloman's success in this area, Chef Markus credits:

A branding team that keeps a strict social media posting calendar
A consistent online presence (including using the same person to style and shoot every Instagram photo, and another who writes every caption)
Choosing the perfect music (House for dinner and French for lunch service)
A dining room design that was “old school but rough around the edges” to give a more laid-back vibe

For Chef Markus, branding goes beyond aesthetics and is carried onto the menu itself.

“I have a French-Austrian restaurant and I have soy sauce on the menu, but I don't have soy sauce mentioned on the menu,” he explains. “You can do anything in the kitchen as long as you're going to package it correctly.”

He elaborates that while soy sauce may not be a traditional ingredient for European cooking, the techniques and dishes are all based on Parisian-Viennese classics, and at the end of the day, that’s the brand consistency that matters.

Utilize your Business Partner

A common conception is that many chefs have a love-hate relationship with their business partners. That's not the case for Chef Markus. He has a great appreciation for the knowledge his partners have and believes their guidance has helped him navigate the famously tumultuous waters of opening restaurants in New York City.

Chef Markus harkened back to his first business partner, renowned restaurateur Drew Nierporent, insisting they include schnitzel on Bâtard’s dinner menu.

“I thought, ‘Do I really want to be known for the best schnitzel in America? No.’ I didn’t want to do the dish but Drew said ‘We’re doing the dish,’ and on the first night, 50% of the main courses ordered were schnitzel,” he says.

Beyond knowing the general New York dining audience, the important role food writers and critics play cannot be overstated when it comes to getting the town to talk about your restaurant.

Chef Markus ascribes to the old adage: “The first review sets the tone, and if that review is bad people just piggyback [off] that.”

Knowing how to impress those setting that tone is something Chef Markus takes seriously, using everything at his disposal to succeed, and relying on his partners and colleagues. He cites his current Beverage Director, Katja Scharnagl (formerly of Le Bernardin) as being hugely helpful in identifying writers in the dining room, while he keeps an eye out from the open-format kitchen.

Trust Yourself

Whether it’s knowing it’s time for you to take a break, or following that feeling that it's time to move to the next level professionally, Chef Markus took a clear stance on the importance of trusting yourself. He reflects on his time running the kitchens at Gordon Ramsay at The London as his moment of clarity.

“I was running a two-Michelin-starred dining room, a casual restaurant, 670 rooms worth of room service plus banquets…it was the 2008 financial crisis and I was worried about my visa being revoked, having to go back home, all these things come in your head and you burn out,” he says. “Just say Stop. Done. Take a break. Re-focus. That’s it. There’s nothing else you can do. If you just keep going, it’s going to get worse and worse.”

On the opposite end of the spectrum is trusting yourself when you know it’s time to take things to the next level.

When asked if there was anything in his career he would do differently, Chef Markus didn’t hesitate in his answer.

“I would pull the trigger earlier on opening a restaurant," he says. "I do think it’s honorable to say you’re never ready, and you always have more to learn…But there comes a point where you have to ask yourself ‘Is this still benefiting me? Or should I do my own thing?”

Chef Markus knew he was putting his heart and soul into the restaurants he worked in as if they were his own, which is what ultimately led him to open his own place.

“I had a sense of ownership without actually having ownership. If you’re working the fish station at Gordon Ramsay and there’s a bad review, I take it as personally as Gordon would have…So ownership was always a very important thing for me, and owning in New York City,” Chef Markus says.

Because in Chef’s words: “Don’t we all want to open a restaurant in New York? Isn’t that the goal?... New York is New York. That’s it.”

Image of Markus Glocker by Nick Johnson.

Guest Lectures Restaurant Management Chefs

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How to Start a Career in Hospitality

abaker — Mon, 18 Sep 2023 13:00:00 +0000

How to Start a Career in Hospitality abaker Mon, 09/18/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/hospitality-career-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=UZbWgXWF September 19, 2023

By Pamela Vachon

Hospitality careers can be extremely rewarding, as well as lucrative, for those who are drawn to the industry.

“A hospitality career demands dedication, hard work and a genuine love for serving others,” says Fabio Pari-di-Monriva, Hospitality and Hotel Management Instructor at the Institute of Culinary Education's New York campus. “The world of food and beverage hospitality [specifically] offers a dynamic and rewarding career path for those who have a passion for culinary arts, customer service and creating memorable experiences.”

“There is no best way to begin a career in hospitality, as every person is different and so are their career goals,” 91��߹'s Director of Online Education and Dean of Hospitality Management Katie Chamberlain says, which is good news since there are so many possibilities.

Whether you are just beginning your working life, or considering a career change, here are some important things to know if you are thinking about how to start a career in hospitality.

What is Hospitality?

Hospitality is an industry that encompasses a number of different sectors, all of which relate to the care of guests or visitors: food and beverage, lodging, event planning, travel and tourism, and recreation and entertainment. Regardless of what sector you begin your hospitality career in, many facets of the hospitality industry are transferable between segments.

“You don’t have to restrict where you begin your career,” Instructor of Hospitality and Hotel Management Nancy Vatcharasoontorn says. “You may begin in restaurants but end up being a general manager in a hotel.”

You may learn over time what aspects of the industry you are most drawn to, and where your particular skills are best suited. The impulse to want to take care of people and anticipate guests’ needs underscores all aspects of the hospitality industry.

Related reading: Should I Go to Culinary School?

What Skills are Important for a Hospitality Career?

Beyond the actual mechanics of any given role in hospitality, there are many “soft skills” required for hospitality careers that can be developed inside or outside of a classroom, and also in a number of different circumstances.

“Effective communication, teamwork, adaptability, problem-solving and customer service skills are essential in hospitality,” Mr. Pari-di-Monriva says. “[You need to] cultivate these soft skills to excel in a fast-paced, people-centric environment.”

In terms of organizational, operational or business skills, those may be learned either on the job, in a formal education program, or a combination of both.

Can You Work Your Way Up in Hospitality?

It is very possible to work your way up in the field of hospitality, beginning with an entry-level position. Throughout the industry, there are numerous tales of prominent people who began their hospitality careers without formal training, beginning as line cooks, back waiters or porters and becoming head chefs, sommeliers or general managers.

“Hospitality is a field where you can progressively advance,” Ms. Chamberlain says. “Starting from entry-level positions, you can climb the ranks by demonstrating dedication, enhancing skills and taking on more responsibilities.”

Mr. Pari-di-Monriva adds “The hospitality industry is well-known for providing opportunities to work your way up and build a successful career. This industry is unique in that it often values practical experience, dedication and a strong work ethic as much as formal education.”

Should You Consider Formal Education for a Career in Hospitality?

Formal education or training, such as the Institute of Culinary Education's Hospitality and Hotel Management diploma program, can certainly give you a leg up if you are just starting a career in hospitality, or looking to advance your current career.

“Training and education play a significant role in building a successful and well-rounded career in the hospitality industry,” Mr. Pari-di-Monriva says. “While hands-on experience is crucial, formal training and education can provide you with a strong foundation, specialized knowledge and a competitive edge in a rapidly evolving field.”

Hospitality programs also typically include externships or apprenticeships, which are a significant part of being able to begin your hospitality career, exposing you to people who are connected to top-tier restaurants or organizations.

“Formal education equips you with historical knowledge, while practical training offers hands-on experience and insight into the industry's workings,” Ms. Chamberlain says. “Both elements are crucial for a successful career in hospitality.”

What’s more is, even if you already have a hospitality career, the Institute of Culinary Education's Hospitality Management program may help you advance.

“Ongoing learning helps you stay current,” Ms. Chamberlain adds. “And soft skills gained through education contribute to excellent customer service.”

Formal education in hospitality can range from classes and seminars to diploma programs such as the one at 91��߹. Which is right for you might be a matter not only of your particular hospitality goals but your resources as you begin.

According to Mr. Pari-di-Monriva, “By combining your passion with strategic planning and continuous learning, anyone can forge a fulfilling and successful journey in this exciting industry.”

Hospitality Management

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Bar FAQs with Anthony Caporale

abaker — Mon, 10 Jul 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Bar FAQs with Anthony Caporale abaker Mon, 07/10/2023 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/bar-faq-wine-glass-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=UGam3Ad8 91��߹'s Director of Spirits Education breaks down the basics July 10, 2023

By Anthony Caporale — Director of Spirits Education

When I began training bartenders nearly two decades ago, I would open with the question, "Did you ever feel like someone somewhere gave a class on how to act in a bar and you weren't invited?"

Even among that group of service professionals, the answer was always a sea of uncomfortable giggles and nods. Since then, both the beverage industry and beverage consumers have grown exponentially in their understanding of the history and science behind cocktails and spirits, but I still start my classes with the same question and the response hasn't changed.

If anything, bar culture has become more intimidating, drinks more complex and the perception of being an outsider has increased among the average consumer. So the purpose of this blog series will be the same as that of my very first class: to demystify the bar.

Meet Anthony Caporale

So we’ll begin at the beginning, with the seemingly simplest and most basic questions I've encountered — many of which actually are neither simple nor basic. If you're new to either side of the bar, you'll gain a solid understanding of the products, techniques, tools and terminology we use. If you're a veteran mixologist, I'll try to throw in enough science and history to keep you interested and hopefully provide additional context for what you've already mastered.

In either case, please send in any questions you have, and be assured that if you have a question, someone else has the same question, so don't be shy.

That said, let's start with the most basic bar question of all.

What is alcohol?

Not a simple question in the least, as it turns out, because at the bar we use the very broad term "alcohol" to refer to just one of many chemicals classified as alcohols: ethyl alcohol, or ethanol. There are many different alcohols besides ethyl, including amyl alcohol, butyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. They are all organic compounds distinguished by an oxygen-hydrogen functional group hanging off the base molecule, so they all have a similar chemical formula and share similar properties:

Alcohols are generally colorless (the shade of dark spirits like whiskey comes from aging in casks, which we'll be covering in a future article).
Most are flammable (the ethanol in vodka is exactly the same as the ethanol in the gasoline in your car).
They are solvents (you've probably used isopropyl alcohol, or isopropanol, to remove sticker residue).
They are toxic in varying dosages.

The only alcohol we drink, though, is ethyl alcohol (CH3CH2OH) which is the least toxic of the family. The word "intoxicated" refers to this unpleasant trait, and in relatively small quantities (about 0.55 percent blood alcohol content) ethanol can be just as deadly to us as its relatives. Ethyl alcohol also kills microorganisms quite handily, which is why it's the active ingredient in hand sanitizer. In fact, during the pandemic shutdown, many distilleries survived by simply putting the ethanol they were producing into sanitizer bottles instead of liquor bottles.

More Like This: Cocktail Rules to Live By

In lower dosages, ethanol also has psychoactive effects, which we call getting drunk. This is the primary reason many consumers today drink alcoholic beverages, though it turns out we were actually consuming alcohol for its toxicity to microorganisms much earlier, and long before that because of its caloric value. But that's also a subject for an upcoming article.

Ethanol is the only active ingredient in spirits like vodka, gin, rum, Tequila and whiskey, and they all contain about the same amount: usually 40 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) or 80 proof. Some spirits are bottled at higher ABVs, but usually by only a few percentage points. So it doesn't matter what spirit you're drinking, if the volume of liquor in your glass is the same, you're consuming the same amount of the exact same chemical — any differences are down to flavor and sometimes color.

Students are often surprised by this, and ask me why they get drunker on certain spirits (like Tequila) than others (like gin). I'll then ask when and how they drink each, and on what occasions. Common answers like "on vacation,” “as a shot" and "night out partying" for Tequila versus "after work,” “in a gin and tonic" and "happy hour" for gin explain the mystery. The difference isn't the spirit in the drink, it's the spirit of the drinker.

To take a deeper dive into spirits like Scotch, Tequila and rum, join me in one of my upcoming recreational classes at 91��߹. Click here to register.

Anthony Caporale is 91��߹'s Director of Spirits Education, and consults for some of the largest beverage companies in the world. He also created The Imbible series of hit NYC musicals about the history of cocktails and spirits. Learn more at anthonycaporale.com.

Spirits Drinks Hospitality Management Restaurant Management

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Andrew Friedman Talks to Manoella "Manu" Buffara

abaker — Mon, 01 May 2023 17:42:43 +0000

Andrew Friedman Talks to Manoella "Manu" Buffara abaker Mon, 05/01/2023 - 13:42 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/MANU_BUFFARA_ATTC-1-2048x2048-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=kyqfOZvW May 12, 2023

By Andrew Friedman

Andrew Friedman has authored or coauthored more than 25 chef-focused books, including the forthcoming "The Dish: The Lives and Labor Behind One Plate of Food." He is also the host and producer of the popular podcast "Andrew Talks to Chefs." He lives in Brooklyn, New York.

Manoella Buffara, also known as “Manu,” has owned and operated her own restaurant, the eponymous Manu, in Curitiba, Brazil, for more than a decade. The restaurant offers an expression of her life and mind in a tasting menu format.

This week, she published a book — "Manu: Recipes and Stories from My Brazil" — that, like the restaurant, is a summation of herself and her cuisine to this point in her journey.

While in New York City to celebrate the book’s launch, Manu sat down with Andrew at the offices of her publisher, Phaidon, to discuss her migration to professional cooking from an original path toward journalism, her formative time at Noma in Copenhagen and the story behind her celebrated restaurant, among many other subjects.

Tune in to hear their discussion.

Andrew Friedman is one of America’s most prolific working chroniclers of chefs, restaurants and America’s food culture. He has authored or co-authored more than 25 books, including the forthcoming “The Dish: The Lives and Labor Behind One Plate of Food.” He is also the host and producer of the popular podcast Andrew Talks to Chefs.

Brooklyn-based Friedman first became fascinated by chefs in 1997, when Chef Alfred Portale asked him to collaborate on the “Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook.” The book received the IACP/Julia Child Cookbook Award for “Best Chef or Restaurant Cookbook,” and is widely considered a classic in the chef cookbook genre. In 2018, he wrote “Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll” chronicling the life and times of 1970s and 80s chefs like Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck whose influence has shaped our contemporary restaurant scene.

Before becoming a working writer, Friedman developed film and television projects. He is a graduate of Columbia University and the former French Culinary Institute’s “La Technique” program.

This episode of Andrew Talks to Chefs, a fully independent podcast hosted by Andrew Friedman, was published with permission.

Cookbooks Chefs Entrepreneurship Andrew Talks To Chefs