Culinary Arts

Why Do Flavors Pair Well?

ajohnson — Sat, 31 Aug 2024 07:41:06 +0000

Why Do Flavors Pair Well? ajohnson Sat, 08/31/2024 - 03:41 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Plated%20dish%20lobster%20green%20header.jpg.webp?itok=XGXaIgrx September 9, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

When different flavors come together harmoniously in a dish as a perfect pairing, it can be a thrilling culinary sensation, but one that may be difficult to describe.

Peanut butter and grape jelly, for example, is a very familiar and comforting flavor combination to Americans, but how does the magic actually happen between a roasted, savory legume and a sweet, fruity compote? Kidney beans, another legume, and watermelon, for example, hardly come together in quite the same way.

As a more complex case, I recall my first experience with a Thai food recipe. Before takeout pad thai noodles became ubiquitous in America, I couldn’t fathom how ingredients such as peanut butter, mint, lime, and bell peppers could possibly get on the same page — but they absolutely did.

91��߹ Los Angeles Senior Chef-Instructor Stephen Chavez shares one of his favorite, unexpected flavor pairings: “One of my favorites has always been shellfish and vanilla,” he says. “It does seem kind of weird, but they really complement each other, and the vanilla almost makes the shellfish taste smoother and creamier.”

The art and science behind why flavors pair well is complex and fascinating, with roots in biology, culture, tradition, and chemistry.

Balance in Flavor Pairing

Taste and flavor aren’t necessarily the same thing, but are both important to consider when it comes to flavor pairing. The taste buds on your tongue can detect about six sensations: sweet, salty, bitter, sour, umami, and spicy. Everything else is a result of olfactory sensations that come from aromas. While those aromas are critical to understanding certain flavor pairings, you can begin with taste to understand why some things work well together.

“Things taste better when there’s balance,” Chef Stephen says, “and certain tastes tend to complement each other."

Some examples of those complimentary tastes are spicy and sweet, sweet and sour, and spicy and bitter.

Cocktails are an excellent example for understanding this type of balance in flavor combinations. While sweet and sour elements have been the hallmarks of well-crafted cocktails historically, “now every cocktail has bitters, and almost every cocktail has a few drops of saline in it,” Chef Stephen says, offering a broader sense of balance and a more intriguing taste sensation.

When it comes to developing a new dish, consulting a recipe, or even deciding what to order in a restaurant, chefs can use the balance principle to consider what functions each individual component might serve. This allows for a whole, finished dish that is greater than the sum of its parts.

Cultural Connotations of Pairing Flavors

Food combinations also taste good to us when we are exposed to them repeatedly, and our taste buds become accustomed to having them together, as with peanut butter and jelly, for example. There’s an adage about flavor pairing: “what grows together, goes together” which also brings in an element of terroir, or sense of place, to the pairing conversation.

Many classic dishes from around the world, which predate industrial food cultivation or even refrigeration, demonstrate how components that share an agricultural pedigree often come together harmoniously. A Thai curry demonstrates this, but so does a French cassoulet. People in those cultures have different experiences of certain flavor pairings, given repeated exposure and a sense of familiarity.

There are also certain cultural cuisines that especially highlight the idea of balance. In these cuisines, different elements interact to create well-paired flavors. In this way, certain flavors can become well-known allies because they are frequently used together.

Before I was a full time culinary student, one of the first classes I took at 91��߹ was Fundamentals of Thai Cooking, which was my introduction to this idea.

“Southeast Asian food is a perfect balance of spicy, sweet, sour, and salty,” Chef Stephen says.

No matter whether you’re talking about a noodle dish, a curry, or a soup, you’ll notice a spectrum of ingredients in Thai cuisine that each brings a different element of balance to the table. Palm sugar or tamarind paste are typical components used for sweetness, kafir lime provides a sour element, various chilies are incorporated for spice, and fish sauce contains both umami and salty sensations. While one or two of these elements may come forward more prominently in a given dish, all these sensations are typically accounted for.

Scientific Properties of Flavor Pairing

While a lot of favorable flavor pairings can be attributed to trial and error, balance, or repeated exposure, as described above, certain ingredients actually pair well together because they are scientifically prone to do so. There are numerous, distinct categories when it comes to various aromas that are built upon chemistry. Chemical compounds that are released into the air that trigger the olfactory system include those such as esters, terpenes, pyrazines, aldehydes, etc. Components that share multiple similar aroma compounds can also make for favorable pairings.

For example, “there are actually a lot of things that are hidden within chocolate and coffee that we don't necessarily know are there,” Chef Stephen says, “but they are there.”

This explains why they work so well together, beyond the fact that they are both prone to bitterness, and may come from the same region. They also share pyrazines, a compound that gives them both similar, earthy tasting notes.

While chocolate and coffee are familiar pairing partners, consider that chocolate and blue cheese also share these same compounds, and also make for a favorable pairing.

Flavor Pairing Resources

You don’t need to have a degree in chemistry, however, to experiment with different pairings, nor do aspiring chefs and recipe developers have to rely entirely on trial and error. Compiled by both chefs and food scientists, there are a number of resources that cooks can use to stoke inspiration when creating a new dish, whether they are new to recipe development or have already had a career as a professional chef.

“I have a copy of Culinary Artistry that I've had for beyond 20 years,” Chef Stephen says. “It's wrapped in plastic wrap, and the pages are coming out, but it's my favorite resource."

Authored by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, the text examines the creative process of culinary composition through interviews with leading American chefs, and includes top 10 lists of ingredients chefs can’t live without.

Another resource by the same duo, “The Flavor Bible,” works as a simple reference manual. Looking up any ingredient, the book provides a list of the most common pairing elements for that ingredient, as named by chefs. “The Flavor Thesaurus” by Niki Segnit is built on a similar principle, breaking down ingredients into four aromatic themes: meaty, cheesy, woodland, and floral/fruity. These themes help delineate what kinds of foods might pair well together.

Food Science Ingredient Exploration

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Understanding Herbs: A Culinary Deep Dive

ajohnson — Sat, 17 Aug 2024 01:30:11 +0000

Understanding Herbs: A Culinary Deep Dive ajohnson Fri, 08/16/2024 - 21:30 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Dried%20herbs%20header.jpg.webp?itok=s0WHDVqb August 16, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

Herbs are one of the most versatile ingredients that chefs and culinary students can use, providing big doses of flavor in small packages.

Students at the Institute of Culinary Education have access to a hydroponic garden, where many varieties of herbs may be snipped directly for maximum freshness.

“Herbs belong everywhere,” Chef-Instructor Ann Ziata says. “Yogurt sauces, salad dressings, and pestos add a fantastic freshness to so many dishes thanks to their generous usage of herbs. Anything that gets roasted in the oven will gain a lovely, savory aroma with the addition of a few sage leaves and rosemary sprigs.” Even baked goods such as certain breads or scones can also benefit from the intense flavor of herbs.

Related: The Hydroponic Garden

Not all herbs are created equal, however, and have a variety of different uses depending on their biological structure and flavor profile.

Here, we dive deeper into what qualifies as an herb, how different herbs are used in culinary preparations, and take a closer look at some of the most popular herbs used in cooking.

What Are Herbs?

The difference between that which we call herbs and that which we call spices can be nuanced, especially because variations can come from different parts of the same plant. Cilantro, for example, is understood in this country to be the leaf part of a certain plant, whereas ground coriander comes from the seed part of the same plant. In different parts of the world, however, coriander may refer to both the leaves and seeds.

"An herb is any leaf of a plant that is used primarily for its pronounced flavor,” Chef Ann says.

Herbs get their flavors from a high concentration of volatile aromatic compounds in the form of essential oils, which differentiates them from other edible leaves such as lettuces.

Types of Herbs and Their Culinary Uses

While the herb category is mainly comprised of leaves whose aromas and flavors are especially powerful, herbs can further be broken down into two major categories, which also governs their culinary uses.

“We generally sort herbs into two categories: soft and woody,” says Chef Ann. “Soft herbs have delicate stems that can be eaten, and woody herbs have tougher stems that are typically not eaten. As with most culinary ingredients, it’s more of a spectrum than a black and white system.”

Consider the difference between soft herbs like dill and basil, where the entire plant can be chopped and easily consumed, and rosemary, whose leaves are separated from the stems, as the woody stems aren’t meant for consumption.

Traditional Flavor Profiles: French Herbs and Spices

Whether or not the stem can be consumed plays into how different herbs can function in recipes and culinary preparations.

How to Cook with Woody Herbs

“Woody herbs can be picked, stems discarded, and then chopped finely,” says Chef Ann, “or they can be used whole in the dish and removed later. Because they are fibrous and strong, they are added early on in the cooking process to give the herb time to soften and release its flavor.”

Herbs such as rosemary and thyme, for example, are often bound into a sachet, which may be used in braises or sautés to aromatize a dish while it cooks. The sachet is then removed prior to serving. Even if they are removed and chopped, the leaves of woody herbs also tend to be sturdier than their soft herb counterparts, and are appropriate to add early in the cooking process, or to use in high heat cooking.

How to Cook with Soft Herbs

As their name implies, soft herbs are more delicate in character, and aren’t necessarily suited for the same treatment as woody herbs.

“Herbs, like basil, cilantro, and dill are lightly chopped and then added toward the end of cooking,” Chef Ann says. “Over-mincing and overcooking will cause them to bruise, turning them a drab green and causing them to taste more bitter. Fresh sprigs can also be kept whole for infusing into light broths and pickling brines."

Soft herbs are typically more suitable for raw preparations than woody herbs, such as in pestos, dressings, or even added as additional greens in salads. They are also often used as garnishes.

Fresh Herbs Versus Dried Herbs

The aromatic leaves of those plants which we refer to as herbs may also be dried, minced, and stored for later usage. (Good news for those of us who don’t have access to an herb garden, or notice a lack of fresh grocery store herbs during the winter months.)

Dried herbs are also used differently than their fresh counterparts, regardless of whether you’re using soft herbs or woody herbs.

“Dried herbs are more concentrated, so you can usually substitute one teaspoon of dried herbs for every tablespoon of fresh chopped herbs. The flavor of dried herbs is pretty dormant and needs time and heat to bloom again,” Chef Ann says.

According to Chef Ann, oil or cooking fat will also help intensify the flavor of dried herbs.

“You can add them early on in the cooking process, usually right after sweating the other, larger aromatic ingredients like onions and garlic,” she says.

Because of their naturally sturdy leaves, woody herbs will tend to have more pronounced flavor in their dried form than soft herbs.

You can usually substitute one teaspoon of dried herbs for every tablespoon of fresh chopped herbs.

Common Herbs for Cooking

There are dozens of different types of herbs, many of which have very specific uses or are most commonly found in certain cultural cuisines. Here are some of the most common types of herbs used in cooking.

Basil

Fresh basil

Basil is a soft herb that belongs to the mint family. Several varieties of basil are used in cooking such as sweet basil, Thai basil, and opal basil. Typically used in Italian and Southeast Asian cuisine, basil has a pungent, slightly spicy character that is reminiscent of fennel or licorice.

Bay Leaf

Bay leaves come from many varieties of laurel trees, and are unique herbs. Unlike most herbs, bay leaves themselves aren’t meant for consumption. Bay leaves are savory and floral, and are typically added whole, whether fresh or dried, to sauces or braises and removed before serving.

Chervil

Chervil is one of the most important herbs in French cuisine, as one part of an herb blend known as “fine herbs” which consists of parsley, chervil, chives, and tarragon, used to season everything. These "fine herbs" are often found seasoning omelets, potatoes, vegetables, poultry and seafood. A relative of parsley, chervil has delicate, lacy leaves. Less pungent than other soft herbs, chervil’s flavor has been likened to licorice or anise.

Two springs of fresh rosemary

Rosemary

Rosemary is actually an evergreen shrub with woody stems. Rosemary's leaves are some of the most bold and aromatic in the field of herbs. Native to the Mediterranean, it has wide culinary uses, and its complex, woodsy and earthy flavor is often used for various meats, potatoes, and stuffings.

Cilantro

Strong in flavor, with an almost tangy or citrus aroma, cilantro is a soft herb that is used in many cuisines such as Mexican, Indian, and Southeast Asian. Cilantro, it must be said, is also one of the most polarizing herbs: people with a specific genetic code will often find its flavor to be soapy and off-putting.

Dill

Dill is a soft herb whose flavor is very dynamic when fresh, but much more subtle when dried, and has been described as grassy and lemony. Dill is most commonly used in Central and Northern Europe and the Baltics, where it is used to flavor seafood, potatoes, and vegetables, and is also common in various pickled preparations.

Mint

Mint is a soft herb with many variations, which has a warm, sweet flavor and a cool aftertaste. Mint is extremely versatile in culinary preparations. It is frequently served as a jelly with lamb, in sauces, as a tea, in dessert, and even in cocktails.

Oregano

Oregano is a woody plant with stems that may be soft enough (when young) for consumption. Unlike herbs such as dill, oregano’s leaves are more intense when dried than when fresh. Oregano is peppery, pungent, and slightly bitter, and is used widely in Italian, Greek, Turkish, Spanish, and Latin American cuisine.

Sage

Fresh sage

Savory and peppery in nature, sage is a strong-flavored, woody herb, whose culinary uses are similar to those of rosemary. Sage’s distinctive, almost fuzzy leaves are often used with meats, sausages, beans, vegetables, pastas, and in sauces.

Parsley

Parsley is a soft herb with lacy leaves that is frequently used for garnish, though it also has many culinary uses. Parsley is widely used in Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and French cuisine, and is often used in sauces, or to season potatoes, rice, vegetables, and a wide variety of proteins. Parsley’s flavor is fresh and lightly bitter, with notes of pepper and earthiness.

Fresh tarragon

Tarragon

Similar to basil and chervil, tarragon has a flavor profile similar to anise, with floral notes, and can be used in both sweet and savory preparations. Its elongated, tender leaves are used throughout various Northern hemisphere cuisines, such as Georgian, Syrian, and French, where it is one of the herbs used in the “fine herbs” blend. Tarragon is frequently paired with chicken, fish, eggs, and cheese.

Thyme

Thyme is a Mediterranean, woody herb with a spicy, citrusy and peppery flavor. Its leaves are among the smallest of any herb, and while they may be picked and chopped, thyme is frequently used in an herb sachet to aromatize sauces, braises, soups, and stews.

Herbs Ingredient Exploration Spices

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Cooking On Tour with Chef Sandra Gajovsky

abaker — Mon, 12 Aug 2024 13:00:00 +0000

Cooking On Tour with Chef Sandra Gajovsky abaker Mon, 08/12/2024 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/cooking-on-tour-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=heXeYHNa August 12, 2024

By Sean Creamer

Sean is a freelance writer at the Institute of Culinary Education (91��߹), combining his passion for food with his storytelling expertise. An outdoor enthusiast interested in adventure writing, he enjoys exploring new recipes, visiting local markets, and experiencing culinary diversity in New York City.

When a musician gets off the stage after belting out tunes for two hours, one of the biggest things on their mind is food, according to Sandra Gajovsky, the Institute of Culinary Education graduate working as the Lead Chef at Dega Catering.

Chef Sandra leads the life of a culinary nomad, cooking across the United States and the world on tour with famous performers like Bob Dylan, Taylor Swift and The Lumineers. Working with a team of expert catering cooks, she puts together multiple meals daily for musicians and the vast support crews needed to keep the music playing every night. But her journey didn’t start with cooking up tapas between taping sessions.

“I never envisioned myself here,” she says. “But now I travel with musicians, feeding them and their staff. You have to have grit in this slice of the industry. Our day can start at 6:30 a.m. and end at 10 p.m. or later, depending on the show and the city the band plays in the next day.”

Chef Sandra did not start her career cooking on the road. After working as a florist, she realized she wanted something more. That’s when she discovered 91��߹. The Culinary Arts program at 91��߹ offered plenty of instruction, information and essential training — perfect for Chef Sandra, as a career changer.

“What sticks with me all these years later are the memories of other people like me — people going through a career change,” says Chef Sandra. “There was a lawyer, a teacher, someone running a family business unrelated to cooking, just a lot of different stories all coming together to cook.”

After graduating and completing her externship, Chef Sandra got her first taste of catering-style cooking at a ritzy country club in Northern New Jersey. She split her time between restaurant-style cuisine and catered buffets for banquets, golf outings, baptisms, weddings and graduations. However, the seasonal nature of golf courses in the Northeast meant a slow winter season, so Chef Sandra moved to Nashville.

Related: What is an Externship?

After working in the restaurant scene in Music City for a few years, she found a role at TomKats Hospitality, a Nashville staple for event and on-location catering. She fell in love with the work but wanted to take her career to a new level. After speaking to a friend who worked in marketing and production for the Warped Tour, she learned about her dream job.

“‘You know what you’d be awesome at? Tour catering,’” Chef Sandra recalls her friend saying. “Cooking food for artists, bands and the crew! As a big music fan, this was a great way to merge two worlds.”

Soon after, Chef Sandra discovered Dega Catering and began a two-year endeavor to get on the company's radar. She got her lucky break with the Country Music Awards, where they needed another set of helping hands to feed 300 to 400 people a day. With a contract secured, she proved her worth by working local events and filling in for people out on tours. Soon, Chef Sandra worked on her first tour with the Zac Brown Band.

“People on the road love their comfort food,” Chef Sandra says of the band’s favorite dishes. “They enjoy simple, home-style meals.”

More 91��߹ Alumni in Catering: Cooking in the Catering World with Chef Hope Glendon

Her tour days begin with local runners in each city shopping for fresh ingredients while her crew sets up the mobile kitchen. Breakfast is served buffet-style, followed by lunch, which is prepared during the artist's soundcheck. The crew and band grab a quick bite of dinner before the show, and then the traveling kitchen usually starts breaking down around 10 p.m. Chef Sandra always has a plate or two of food ready to warm up in case of late-night munchies.

“We won’t cook up a meal in the middle of the night, so no midnight grilled cheese sandwiches,” she says. “But we always have a little after-show meal ready for the artists and crew.”

Life moves fast when you're cooking for performers like the Foo Fighters. But between tours, Chef Sandra found time to compete in season 22 of Hell’s Kitchen. The experience was challenging, as she found not only her cooking scrutinized, but also her social interactions.

“The psychology of the show was wild — you’ve got all the stress of the kitchen in a pressure cooker social experience where you’re prepping meals with 17 other cooks you’ve never worked with,” she says. “They even take notes of your facial expressions to ask what you were thinking about in the confessionals!”

Though being on the road is a way of life for Chef Sandra, she eventually plans to open a gothic-themed bakery. Until then, the Chef Sandra Gajovsky International Tour continues.

For those thinking of getting into culinary arts, Chef Sandra has crucial advice.

“Put your head down and work your butt off," she says. "Be a reliable employee and do the best job you can do. Other people will see the value in you, your work and your ethics.”

More Alumni Stories

Alumni Culinary Arts Career Changer Career

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Understanding Fresh Cheeses and Their Culinary Uses

abaker — Mon, 24 Jun 2024 18:50:47 +0000

Understanding Fresh Cheeses and Their Culinary Uses abaker Mon, 06/24/2024 - 14:50 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/fresh-cheeses-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=48zdZLeI June 24, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

Fresh cheeses go through only minimal transformation from milk to cheese, and experience little to no aging, leaving them with a high moisture content compared to other kinds of cheese.

Mostly milky or a little salty in flavor, fresh cheese can be made in a matter of hours, rather than weeks or months. Despite their inherent simplicity, however, fresh cheeses may be produced by various methods and treatments, which can produce a multitude of textures, from crumbly to stretchy to spreadable. The type of animal milk used, as well as any marinades or brines applied, can also govern fresh cheeses’ diverse flavors and textures.

Related Reading: 5 Major Cheese Styles Every Chef Should Know

Here we uncover what makes different types of fresh cheese unique, as well as explore various culinary applications for each.

Mozzarella

Mozzarella is arguably the most famous of the fresh cheeses and is typically made from either cow’s milk or buffalo milk, as in mozzarella di bufala. Inarguably, it is the best-selling cheese in the United States, largely due to our love of pizza. But simple mozzarella is more than meets the eye. Mozzarella’s signature attribute — its stretchiness and meltability — comes from the unique way that it is made.

Mozzarella is also known as a pasta filata, or “stretched curd” cheese. This stretching of the curd during formation is the step that creates mozzarella’s ability to stretch later on when heat is applied. Burrata, mozzarella’s cousin, is simply mozzarella stuffed with mozzarella scraps that have been dressed with cream, a mixture that is considered a fresh cheese unto itself, called stracciatella.

Mozzarella isn’t only limited to melty, pizza and pasta dishes with an Italian pedigree, however. Mozzarella is an excellent salad cheese, especially when it has a starring role like in caprese salad. It can be deep-fried, used as a stuffing, incorporated in egg dishes such as quiche and frittata and employed anywhere an excellent melting cheese is called for, such as grilled cheese or quesadillas.

To create mozzarella, fresh curds are melted together in a briny, hot water bath while they are pulled and shaped into the fresh balls we can easily find in almost any grocery store. (How hot is hot, you ask? I still have PTSD from making it in culinary school.) Mozzarella is typically made in a bath of about 180 degrees Fahrenheit. By comparison, the hottest hot tub tops out at about 110 degrees Fahrenheit. While it is readily available commercially, mozzarella is also an easy cheese to make yourself, either starting with fresh curds or making the curds from scratch from easy-to-get ingredients.

Try it Yourself: Hand-Pulled Mozzarella

Ricotta

Historically, ricotta may actually be considered a by-product of cheese, as it would have been developed from the liquid whey drained from making other types of cheese. This whey still contains minuscule milk solids, and another heating and acidifying of the whey creates micro-curds that are strained out of the liquid to form fluffy ricotta. Its name reflects its formation since it effectively goes through the heating and coagulation stage twice: ricotta means “re-cooked” in Italian.

Ricotta is potentially the easiest cheese to make from scratch, and fresh, house-made ricotta will always be superior to industrial, packaged ricotta. You can probably make it right now from the ingredients you have on hand. Some form of acid is required, such as lemon juice or white vinegar, and either cheesecloth or a mesh strainer.

Known mostly for its use in stuffed pasta dishes, ricotta can also be used to create creamy sauces and dips or to enrich the bases for goods such as pancakes, muffins or gnocchi.

Related Recipe: Pumpkin and Ricotta Gnocchi

Cream Cheese/Mascarpone/Quark

As cultured dairy products made by the separation of curds and whey, all of these fresh variations on “cream cheese” are in fact considered actual cheeses, and are governed by matters of process as well as fat and acid content. While ricotta is historically made from whey, cream cheeses are made with additional cream added to a milk base.

Their dense, homogeneous natures make cream cheeses ideal spreads, fillings and dips, but of course, they are also famous for being the stars of the show when it comes to cheesecakes or other custardy desserts. They can also create the frosting to top different types of cakes. For a savory application, I also find cream cheese and its ilk an excellent hack for creating quick and creamy stovetop macaroni and cheese.

Related Recipe: Tiramisu

Chèvre

While mozzarella may be the most famous of fresh cheeses, goats were domesticated before cows to produce food, meaning that fresh chèvre or something similar may be one of the oldest types of cheese. Fresh goat cheese also stands alone among fresh cheeses for having a very distinctive flavor, where farming practices really matter: keeping bucks separate from female goats while they are milking is necessary to avoid a funky, aggressively “goaty” taste. Otherwise, chèvre has a smooth consistency that can range from creamy to lightly chalky, and a flavor that is especially fresh and tangy.

Chèvre is extremely versatile and can be used for salads, deep-fried, baked into pastries and can also stand in for ricotta or cream cheese in a variety of spreads, dips and even cheesecakes. Fresh goat cheese is especially harmonious when paired with herbs.

Related Reading: Understanding Goat Cheese

Feta/Brined Cheese

Other forms of fresh cheeses, namely feta, may be kept in a water brine which both enhances their salty nature and increases the longevity of cheese, which is especially important for high-moisture fresh cheeses which otherwise have a typically short shelf life. Feta may be made from a number of different animal milks but is typically sheep and or goat, which both contribute to its strong, distinctive flavor.

Feta is known for being particularly crumbly and slightly drier in texture than other fresh cheeses, due to having a relatively large curd structure compared to other fresh cheeses. It can be pulverized into dips or spreads for a more homogenous consistency, but on its own, it also makes a beautiful addition to salads and Greek pastries. As it is not a superb melting cheese, feta can hold its form when grilled or baked. Also look for flavorful marinated feta options, where the cheese is stored in oil frequently flavored with garlic and herbs.

Related Recipe: Whipped Feta, Two Ways

Cheese & Dairy Ingredient Exploration

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8 Classic Cookbooks Chefs Still Rely On

abaker — Fri, 07 Jun 2024 19:25:08 +0000

8 Classic Cookbooks Chefs Still Rely On abaker Fri, 06/07/2024 - 15:25 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/cookbook-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=ZgGF7Du6 June 11, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

In the age of the internet, one might think that cookbooks would have become a relic of the past, however, new cookbooks continue to enter the market on a regular basis.

Plenty of classic cookbooks contain wisdom that even tenured chefs still rely on.

“I think the thing that makes classic cookbooks classic is they are both trend-proof and bullet-proof,” says 91��߹ Los Angeles Campus President Lachlan Sands. “The recipes in them remain popular because they are delicious, culturally relevant and if you follow the directions as written, they work. With the advent of the internet and the opportunity to source from millions of online recipes, professionally tested and functional recipes are hard to identify. Classic cookbooks make it easy.”

Why do professional chefs prefer certain classic cookbooks?

In the digital age, cooking remains stubbornly analog, which is a comfort for those of us who love to do it, and physical cookbooks are also a reminder of that, regardless of changing technology and tastes.

“Many of these books are by the giants upon whose shoulders we stand,” adds 91��߹ Chef-Instructor Stephen Chavez. “I do believe that ingredients, innovations and tastes change, but the technique is forever. There are only seven classic ways to cook: sauté, grill, fry, braise, poach, roast and the rarely used poeler,” he says. “If you can master those techniques, then you can cook anything.”

91��߹ Chef Ann Ziata adds “Chefs today didn't invent cooking; they learned from the cooks before them. And before the internet, if you wanted to expand your skills beyond family recipes, you had to open a book. When students start culinary school, we take them back to the basics: traditional cooking techniques and classic recipes. Once they have a solid foundation, they can add their own flair and create dishes with dimension and meaning.”

Cookbooks have and will continue to be our partners-in-crime for the cooking process. Their dog-eared corners and sauce-splattered pages are like a diary, reminding us of some of our favorite memories of feeding ourselves and our loved ones. Both recently and historically classic, here are eight cookbooks that chefs still frequently turn to.

“The Joy of Cooking” by Irma S. Rombauer

“The Joy of Cooking” reminds us that cooking can — and should — be a joyful pursuit.

“‘The Joy of Cooking’ is such a solid foundation for understanding everything from grains to soups to breads and desserts,” Chef Ann says. “A great dish is a classic for a reason, and good taste never goes out of style."

Originally published in 1931, The New York Public Library named it one of the 150 most influential books — not just cookbooks — of the 20th century, speaking to its long-lasting relevance. The 75th Anniversary edition, published in 2006, retains the original voice of the author, and there is a joy to be found even in the table of contents, with sections including “Griddle Cakes and Fritter Variations” and “Poultry and Wildfowl.”

“CookWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Cooking” by Shirley O. Corriher

Published in 1997, this excellent, scientifically focused cookbook is a favorite of Chef Stephen.

“Along with James Beard, she is one of the major influences on Alton Brown and was seen occasionally on camera in his show ‘Good Eats,’” he says. “She approaches food from a scientific perspective and answers not only how to do something, but why that something happens, and what the science is behind it,” an especially helpful methodology for aspiring chefs.

Cookbooks not only outline the cooking process but can help reignite memories tied to specific dishes and cuisines. Chef Stephen knows this well.

“Years ago, when applying for my first job teaching [at] Le Cordon Bleu, I memorized [Shirley O. Corriher's] information about cooking crème anglaise, and recited it word for word when doing my cooking demo,” he says. “Thankfully, that extra bit of information that I gave to the panel was what put my demo over the top, and I got the job. Here I am still teaching in my twentieth year, and I still reference Shirley and her book today.”

“The Silver Spoon” published by Phaidon Press

Before Marcella Hazan did for Italian cuisine what Julia Childs did for French, this cookbook was on hand to help people learn Italian cuisine.

“‘The Silver Spoon’ cookbook was originally published in 1950 to establish a baseline for classic Italian cooking,” Chef Lachlan says. “Focused on fresh, quality ingredients and authentic regional flavor profiles, this is my favorite cookbook ever. If I could eat from this one every day, I would.”

“The New Best Recipe” by Cook's Illustrated

Chef Lachlan cites this extensive work as one of two cookbooks he finds himself returning to. Authored collectively by Cook's Illustrated, informally considered “America’s Test Kitchen,” the original was published in 1999, with the “New” version published in 2004.

“This encyclopedic work covers just about everything you would ever want to cook with clear directions and dozens and dozens of tests for each recipe,” Chef Lachlan says, “making them both bullet-proof and super tasty.”

“Mastering the Art of French Cooking” by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck

Chef Stephen notes that he, of course, has a copy of what became one of the most influential cookbooks of all time. Not only did it inspire home cooks in the 1960s to travel to France via their own kitchens, but it also inspired so much more: the genesis of cooking television, a tribute blog and a major motion picture. So let it continue to inspire you, as well.

Sure, you can look up hundreds, if not thousands, of Boeuf Bourguignon recipes online, but will your process have the well-tested pedigree of this manual, not to mention the appropriate feel without it propped open on the counter, and the quirky falsetto of Julia herself whispering in your ear?

“The Fannie Farmer Cookbook: A Tradition of Good Cooking for a New Generation of Cooks” by Marion Cunningham

91��߹ Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Kathryn Gordon recommends this cookbook with its reassuring title, for its “classic and usually straightforward recipes and a sense of nostalgia.”

Speaking of nostalgia, this is arguably the most classic of the classics, originally published in 1896 as "The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book." A perfect manual for beginners especially, the book includes nearly 2,000 recipes to bring aspiring cooks back to the basics.

“The Voluptuous Vegan” by Myra Kornfeld

While Mollie Katzen’s "Moosewood Cookbook" is long considered the bible for vegetarian cuisine long before “local” and “seasonal” became principles that American cooks dared aspire to, Chef Ann suggests that Myra Kornfeld’s book does the same for vegan cookery.

Published in 2000, “it was ahead of the time for vegan recipes,” Chef Ann says. “If you've been plant-based for a while, you remember how rare it was to find good recipes that weren't just sautéed tofu with carrots. This book opened my world to vegetables I hadn't tried before and techniques that made every meal very gourmet.”

Want to eat more plants? Broaden your horizons in 91��߹'s Plant-Based Culinary Arts program

“Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook” published by Better Homes & Gardens

It is the red gingham of this book that conjures my own earliest kitchen memories and comforts me with its ongoing commitment to practicality: the category tabs, the helpful introductory sections on measuring and ratios, the photo series that delineate everything from pasta shapes to cuts of beef. And perhaps most importantly, the 3-ring binding, which allowed it to easily lay flat on the counter. (It’s hard to believe that this hasn’t become the industry standard for cookbooks in the years since it was first published in 1965.)

Even though each edition has added new recipes to stay contemporary and relevant, it hasn’t lost sight of its roots, and it’s what I want to reach for when the urge for classic comfort foods like scalloped potatoes or pot roast strikes.

More like this: Essential Cookbooks Written by Black Authors

Cookbooks

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Exploring Different Culinary Uses of Firm Cheeses

abaker — Tue, 14 May 2024 18:27:42 +0000

Exploring Different Culinary Uses of Firm Cheeses abaker Tue, 05/14/2024 - 14:27 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/culinary-use-for-cheese_HERO.jpg.webp?itok=ax_5d9YU May 14, 2024

By Pamela Vachon

Cheese is typically categorized by how different varieties are made, resulting in several major style distinctions. Depending on who is categorizing, this may result in many different styles.

Firm or hard cheeses are often grouped together for the sake of simplicity, and typically have a couple of major characteristics in common, even among diverse types of cheese.

First, most hard cheeses are typically “pressed curd” cheeses, meaning that curds are pressed to extract additional whey — the water component of milk — once they’re assembled into molds and before they begin the aging process. Second, firm cheeses are usually the result of at least several months of aging, which allows for even more moisture to evaporate out of the cheese, resulting in an increasingly firmer texture as more months are spent in the caves. The long aging process for firm cheeses can also help complex flavors develop.

Related reading: 5 Major Cheese Styles Every Chef Should Know

In exploring different subcategories within the catch-all hard cheese category, it’s not only helpful to understand how various hard cheeses differ in how they’re made, but also how they function in a culinary framework. Not all cheeses are built the same when it comes to what happens when heat is applied. Here, we explore different culinary uses of various hard or firm cheeses.

Grana Cheese

Meaning “grain” in Italian, grana cheeses are some of the most important cheeses worldwide when it comes to their culinary usage. Parmigiano-Reggiano and Grana Padano are the most famous cheeses in this category. Both must be aged for at least nine months — 12 in the case of Parmigiano-Reggiano — resulting in a dry, crumbly texture and a savory flavor. But age isn’t the only defining characteristic when it comes to these types of cheeses, and how they may be used in cooking.

There is a particular nuance in the cheesemaking process for these cheeses that accounts for their granular structure. In cheesemaking, rennet is used in order to coagulate cheese, turning liquid milk into a solid. After this step, curds are cut. In the case of grana cheeses, curds are cut into incredibly small bits, or grains, before being set into molds. This small granular structure contributes to the endgame of these kinds of cheeses, as they are perfect for grating. Think the flurries of cheese topping salads, instantly thickening soups and salad dressings or combining with hot noodles to create an immediate sauce. These cheeses have a more powdery structure when grated than other types of firm cheese, and the smaller the particles, the more easily they adhere to whatever you apply them to.

Cooked Curd Cheese

Welcome to your best melting cheeses — cooked curd cheeses — which have a tendency to ooze gracefully, whether or not they are incorporated with any other creamy ingredients. When heat is applied, cooked curd cheeses turn into a naturally emulsified pool of fondue due to a nuance in their cheesemaking process.

Sometimes classified as “pressed and cooked,” most in large format, Alpine or Alpine-style cheeses such as Gruyère, Comté, Emmenthaler, etc., fall into this category. During the making of these types of cheeses, curds are gently heated to between 118° and 132°F, knitting their protein and fat structure together in such a way that they stay cohesive when cooked in the future, and not becoming lumpy or separated. Many of the most famously cheesy dishes from around the world rely on this type of cheese, such as fondue, tartiflette and French onion soup. Not all cheeses are created equal, especially when it comes to meltability, and knowing which cheeses are cooked curd melters is important for professional and amateur cooks alike.

Read more: All About Alpine Cheese

Cheddar Cheese

Cheddar cheese is considered its own style of hard or firm cheese because of a particular distinction in its making process. “Cheddaring” has become a verb in a similar way as “Xeroxing,” using the name of the product to describe its process. In cheddar cheesemaking, curds are cut, stacked and re-cut and stacked, creating a Tetris-like structure in the resulting cheese. Real, aged English cheddars, or those which are bandaged or clothbound, get crumbly with age, and incredibly savory, oftentimes revealing notes of horseradish or mustard in their flavor.

This depth of flavor makes cheddar an excellent culinary cheese, however, its unique structure doesn’t provide the same kind of meltability as the cheeses described above. (Cheddar cheese is a pressed curd cheese, like all of the firm cheeses here, but is not a cooked curd cheese.) Because it can tend to leach its oil when heated, it is important to use cheddar in a milk-based, béchamel sauce, or to combine it with other melting cheeses in order to achieve a desirable consistency. Because of its robust flavor, however, cheddar also works well when baked into savory dough.

Read more: Understanding Cheddar

Gouda/Washed Curd Cheese

Similar to cheddar, gouda is also considered a unique category of cheese unto itself because of the process it undergoes during cheesemaking. After whey is separated from the curds in its early stages, gouda’s curds are rinsed with water to remove additional lactose. With less lactose available to convert to lactic acid during the aging process, gouda cheeses typically possess a more pronounced sweetness rather than savory or sharp characteristics. This “washed curd” approach, which also happens with heated water, also renders gouda a great melter. In Dutch culture, gouda is often used for snacking more than cooking, however, gouda has similar applications to other cooked curd cheeses above. Because of its inherent sweetness, gouda is often useful alongside milder flavors.

Read more: Understanding Gouda

Cheese & Dairy Ingredient Exploration

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What is Flambé?

ajohnson — Mon, 06 May 2024 18:48:20 +0000

What is Flambé? ajohnson Mon, 05/06/2024 - 14:48 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/flambe-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=yjUcvFqe Culinary Arts students learn this traditional French technique at 91��߹ May 6, 2024

By 91��߹ Staff

Whether it’s a show-stopping squash centerpiece or a traditional Coq au Vin, the flambé technique is applicable to an array of dishes. (Plus, who doesn’t love setting food aflame?)

What is flambé?

Meaning “flamed” in French, flambé is the process of adding alcohol, typically Cognac or rum, to a hot pan and then lighting it on fire. While the alcohol cooks off, the sauce reduces and provides a caramelization or maillard reaction to the dish.

How do you safely flambé?

Since you are literally setting food on fire, it’s important to take necessary precautions.

“Take your pan away from the flame, add your Brandy, put it back and let it go,” says 91��߹’s Director of Culinary Affairs, Hervé Malivert.

His preferred flambé liquors are Cognac, Brandy and whiskey — and in that order.

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What recipes use flambé?

Bananas Foster, Cherries Jubilee and Crêpes Suzette are some of the more quintessential flambéed dishes that were made popular by being served tableside.

Students in 91��߹’s Culinary Arts program are taught how to flambé when making pan sauces, including Lobster Américaine, which features a sauce of onions, tomatoes, white wine, cayenne, butter and fish stock, finished with brandy.

More like this: Essential Restaurant Terminology You Should Know

Culinary Technique Culinary Arts Cooking

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How to Dry-Age Meat at Home

abaker — Thu, 25 Apr 2024 20:01:45 +0000

How to Dry-Age Meat at Home abaker Thu, 04/25/2024 - 16:01 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/dry-age-meat-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=JR_5y3Qo Enhance the flavors and textures of proteins — no fancy gadgets required. May 2, 2024

By Cory Sale

Cory Sale is the Senior Public Relations Manager at 91��߹ and an alumna (Culinary Arts '22). She enjoys writing about seasonal produce almost as much as visiting NYC’s greenmarkets, where she finds new flavors to add to ice cream. When she’s not cooking (or eating), you can find her on the frisbee field chasing down a piece of plastic.

When dry-aging meat, beneficial bacteria break down tough connective tissue and moisture evaporates, deepening the flavor of the meat.

Dry-aging a cut of meat often results in a tender product with a concentrated flavor and some extra fun, funky flavor notes.

While traditional dry-aging requires lots of space, specific temperature and humidity controls and large cuts of meat, Lead Chef-Instructor of Online Culinary Arts & Food Operations Shawn Matijevich has scaled down the techniques involved to great success in his restaurant and home kitchens.

His secret? Remove the plastic packaging the meat comes in and leave it unwrapped in the fridge before cooking. The moisture loss through evaporation will mimic the effect of dry-aging to yield a deeper flavor, crispy exterior and tender interior textures. Chef Shawn recommends placing the unwrapped protein on a roasting rack set on top of a sheet pan and letting it sit for up to three days in the fridge.

Before you shudder at the thought of leaving unwrapped, raw meat in the refrigerator, know that Chef Shawn has considered food safety. Make sure nothing is stored around the meat or on top of it, and the sheet pan will collect any drippings.

Additionally, letting a protein breathe helps it last longer. An airtight wrapper traps in moisture the kind of wet environment that spoilage microorganisms love. But under drier conditions, bacterial growth is stunted and proteins naturally tenderize and create more concentrated flavors.

Related: Why You Should Dry-Age Steaks

Think about how steaks can be dry-aged for over 30-40 days, but at home, chicken would spoil if left in its packaging for over a week. As long as you follow good sanitation procedures and use your senses, you shouldn’t have a problem.

Practice this technique using thick, fattier cuts of meat. A lean cut may develop too thick of a skin on the muscle and become chewy. Chef Shawn recommends fatty cuts of steak at least 1.5 inches thick, such as New York strip or ribeye, duck breasts or whole chicken. (When working with a whole chicken, you can roast it whole or simply remove the pieces as you want to cook them.)

Place the protein skin-side up on a rack to promote airflow around the whole product, and leave it in the fridge for three days. The outer layer will develop a pellicle, becoming dryer on the outside while becoming slightly darker in color. This is where you can experiment to see how long you want to dry the meat out.

These lightly dry-aged proteins shine when the goal is to get a nice sear. Moisture is the enemy of searing, so allowing some of the protein’s moisture to evaporate will result in crispy browning. Use dry heat cooking methods like sautéing, grilling or broiling, instead of moist heat applications to reap the benefits of aging.

Related: How to Grill Steak

Keep in mind that the benefits of this technique are flavor concentration, tenderization and to achieve a crispier skin.

Professional cooking is all about having a solid plan and prep, not tricks or fancy techniques. Think about all the prep that happens to each ingredient before service. This is one you can easily execute at home to get a bump in flavor and texture when cooking protein.

Meat Fermentation

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How Dashi Led to the Discovery of MSG

abaker — Thu, 28 Mar 2024 17:18:58 +0000

How Dashi Led to the Discovery of MSG abaker Thu, 03/28/2024 - 13:18 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Soup%20dashi%20noodles%20bowl%20HEADER.jpg.webp?itok=OlxmNXXY April 2, 2024

By Olivia Carter

Dashi, a cornerstone of Japanese gastronomy, represents the epitome of umami — a flavor profile revered for its savory richness and depth.

At its core, dashi serves as the foundation upon which countless Japanese dishes are built, extending beyond a mere clear broth.

Its delicate yet complex taste, characterized by the subtle interplay of umami-rich ingredients like kombu (dried kelp) and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes), forms the backbone of soups, stews, sauces, marinades and more. From the humble beginnings of a pot of simmering water emerges a versatile and multi-dimensional liquid that enriches every dish it touches.

Related: Common Types of Ramen

Dashi Ingredients

Kombu is a type of brown algae that grows in underwater forests along the coastlines of Japan, Korea and other East Asian countries. It's one of the most widely consumed seaweeds in Japanese cuisine.

Kombu typically comes in large, thick, dark green or brownish sheets, and its texture is smooth and leathery, and usually sold dried. When dried, kombu can range in color from deep green to nearly black. It has a subtly sweet and briny flavor with a distinct umami taste, making it a prized ingredient in Japanese cooking.

Kombu is typically dark green or brown and sold as dried sheets.

Katsuobushi is made through a labor-intensive process that involves filleting and boiling fresh tuna, then smoking and drying the fillets. After the initial drying process, the fish is inoculated with mold cultures to aid in fermentation. The fish is then left to dry and ferment further in a controlled environment for several months to develop its characteristic flavor and texture.

Once fully dried and fermented, the katsuobushi is shaved into thin flakes using a special tool called a katsuobushi kezuriki. These flakes are paper-thin and have a firm, slightly chewy texture. The shaving process is crucial for maximizing the surface area of the katsuobushi, allowing it to release its flavor quickly when added to hot liquid. In addition to being used in dashi, katsuobushi is also commonly used as a topping for various Japanese dishes, such as okonomiyaki (savory pancakes), takoyaki (octopus balls) and tofu dishes. It can also be ground into a powder and used as a seasoning, or incorporated into sauces and marinades to add depth of flavor.

Katsuobushi in Japan. Courtesy of Sophie on Flickr under the Creative Commons 2.0 License.

How to Make Dashi

While the process may vary slightly depending on the recipe and desired outcome, traditional dashi is typically made by steeping kombu in water over low to medium heat until the liquid reaches a gentle simmer, rather than a rolling boil. Boiling kombu at too high a temperature can release bitter compounds and negatively affect the flavor of the dashi.

Once the kombu has been simmered for some time (usually around 20-30 minutes), it is often removed from the pot, and the liquid is then brought to a boil. Once boiling, katsuobushi is added to the pot, and the mixture is immediately removed from the heat and allowed to steep for several minutes. This allows the bonito flakes to infuse their smoky, savory flavor into the dashi without overcooking them.

After steeping, the dashi is strained to remove the kombu and bonito flakes, leaving behind a clear, flavorful broth that can be used as a base or enjoyed as is. The gentle simmering process helps to extract the maximum amount of flavor from the kombu and bonito flakes while preserving the delicate nuances of the ingredients.

Dashi in a Recipe: Ochazuke with Yaki Onigiri

Dashi Variations

Although classic dashi traditionally only has two ingredients, there are other varieties of dashi used just as frequently in Japanese cuisine.

Niboshi dashi, made from dried anchovies, offers a unique depth of flavor with a hint of brininess. To make niboshi dashi, dried anchovies are gently simmered in water, imparting their savory essence to the liquid. This dashi variety is particularly popular in regions like Kyushu and Okinawa, where seafood plays a prominent role in local cuisine.

Another variation, shiitake mushroom dashi, is a vegetarian-friendly alternative that boasts a rich, earthy flavor profile. Dried shiitake mushrooms are soaked in water and then simmered to extract their umami-rich essence. This dashi variety is prized for its versatility and is often used as a base for vegetarian soups, stews and sauces.

All of these dashi ingredients share a very important relation — they are heavy in umami flavor. This flavor profile has been already mentioned a few times now, but further understanding of this taste allows for a deeper appreciation of this complex culinary marvel.

All of these dashi ingredients share a very important relation — they are heavy in umami flavor.

What Is Umami?

Umami, often described as the fifth taste alongside sweet, sour, salty and bitter, is the secret ingredient that elevates dishes from good to extraordinary.

But what exactly is umami? In simple terms, umami is the taste sensation associated with savory, meaty flavors — a sensation that lingers on the palate, leaving a sense of satisfaction and contentment. The concept of umami is not a recent discovery; in fact, it has been recognized by cultures around the world for centuries. However, it wasn't until the early 20th century that umami was formally identified by the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda.

Kikunae Ikeda. Courtesy: Google Arts and Culture [1], Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In 1908, Ikeda became intrigued by the unique taste of dashi. He noticed that dashi had a distinct flavor that couldn't be categorized into the four basic tastes recognized at the time: sweet, sour, salty and bitter. Determined to uncover the mystery behind this taste, Ikeda embarked on a series of experiments to isolate and identify the compounds responsible.

Through meticulous experimentation, Ikeda succeeded in isolating glutamate as the key component responsible for the savory taste of dashi. He discovered that glutamate, when present in certain foods, elicited a pleasant, savory taste sensation that complemented other flavors. This glutamate is naturally occurring in both kombu and katsuobushi, which synergize together to enhance said flavor in dashi.

Other ingredients such as tomatoes, mushrooms and aged cheeses, provide a bounty of glutamate, enriching dishes with savory depth and complexity. Ikeda coined the term "umami" to describe this unique taste, deriving it from the Japanese words "umai" (delicious) and "mi" (taste).

MSG: The Hero Becomes the Villian

Ikeda's groundbreaking research not only identified umami as a distinct taste but also paved the way for a deeper understanding of the role of glutamate in flavor perception. His work laid the foundation for subsequent studies into umami and its physiological effects, shaping our understanding of taste and flavor in the culinary world.

After identifying glutamate as the compound responsible for the savory taste sensation of umami, Ikeda sought to create a stable and easily accessible form of glutamate that could be added to foods to enhance their flavor.

In 1909, Ikeda and his collaborator, Shintaro Kodama, successfully developed a method to produce monosodium glutamate by fermenting starches or sugars with glutamate-producing bacteria. They then crystallized the resulting glutamate salt, creating a white, odorless powder with a high concentration of glutamate. Ikeda patented this process and began commercial production of MSG under the brand name "Ajinomoto," which translates to "essence of taste" in Japanese. MSG quickly gained popularity as a flavor enhancer, prized for its ability to intensify and round out the flavors of various dishes without imparting a specific taste of its own.

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However, despite its ubiquitous presence in the culinary landscape, MSG became the subject of intense scrutiny and vilification in Western media during the latter half of the 20th century. The controversy surrounding MSG stemmed from a series of unsubstantiated claims linking its consumption to adverse health effects, including headaches, nausea and allergic reactions.

The origins of MSG's vilification can be traced back to a letter published in the New England Journal of Medicine in 1968, in which Dr. Robert Ho Man Kwok described experiencing symptoms he attributed to the consumption of Chinese food, which he surmised contained MSG. This anecdotal report sparked widespread concern through media, despite no legitimate studies backing the claim.

This led to subsequent research that failed to provide conclusive evidence linking MSG to adverse health outcomes in the general population. However, the stigma surrounding MSG persisted, fueled by sensationalized media reports and consumer misinformation.

The term "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" was coined to describe the collection of symptoms attributed to MSG consumption, further perpetuating the negative perception of the flavor enhancer. Decades later, even more confusion about this popularized claim came about, as a man named Howard Steel claimed in a letter to the New York Times in 1993 that he was the real submitter of the letter originally attributed to Dr. Ho Man Kwok. In his letter, Steel stated that he had used the pseudonym "Ho Man Kwok" and written the letter as a prank, not expecting the journal to regard his writings seriously. However, this admission could not be confirmed due to conflicting information regarding the family of a real Dr. Robert Ho Man Kwok insisting it was a real letter, not a prank. Nevertheless, the stigma surrounding MSG continues to influence consumer perceptions and food choices to this day.

Despite the lack of scientific consensus on the safety of MSG, regulatory bodies such as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have consistently affirmed its status as a Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) ingredient when used in accordance with good manufacturing practices.

In recent years, efforts to dispel myths surrounding MSG and educate consumers about its safety have gained traction. Scientific organizations and health authorities have reaffirmed the safety of MSG, emphasizing its role as a flavor enhancer that can contribute to enjoyable and satisfying culinary experiences when used responsibly.

Nonetheless, the legacy of MSG's vilification serves as a cautionary tale about the power of misinformation and the importance of evidence-based decision-making in matters of food and health.

More Umami-Packed Ingredient Exploration: Types of Soy Sauce

Ingredient Exploration Food History Umami

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Types of Soy Sauce

abaker — Mon, 18 Mar 2024 20:56:07 +0000

Types of Soy Sauce abaker Mon, 03/18/2024 - 16:56 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/soy-sauce-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=aDBA5hPr March 18, 2024

By Olivia Carter

Soy sauce, the ubiquitous condiment revered across Asia, boasts a history as rich and complex as its taste.

Its origins can be traced back over 2,000 years to China, where it emerged as a cornerstone of the cuisine. Trade then carried this liquid gold across the world, where it became deeply woven into the culinary tapestry of each region.

This breakdown of the unique soy sauces of China, Japan, Korea and the Philippines will explore their intricate brewing techniques, unique flavor profiles and the irreplaceable roles they play in defining each nation's cuisine.

China: The Birthplace and Master of Soy Sauce

In the culinary realm of China, soy sauce reigns supreme, enriching dishes with its distinct blend of saltiness, sweetness and “xianwei.” Xianwei is the Mandarin word for what is popularly known as “umami,” or a savory flavor profile. Here, soy sauce is brewed in two primary forms: light (shēngchōu) and dark (lǎochōu).

Types of Chinese Soy Sauce

Shēngchōu: Chinese Light Soy Sauce

Shēngchōu is known for its vibrant amber color and intense saltiness, serving as the workhorse of Chinese kitchens. It is generally thinner and lighter in color than the familiar Japanese soy sauce. Light soy sauce is made from steamed soybeans and roasted wheat that are blended together, which is then spread on wooden trays and left to ferment for several days. Once fermented, the paste is pressed similarly to olive oil.

Premium light soy sauce is traditionally made from the first press of fermented soybeans. The beans are pressed several times, but the first harvest is the most potent, making premium light soy sauce higher quality than the later batches. Additional ingredients are added with each batch to help maintain flavor until complete. Once finished, water and salt are added to the spent fermented mixture, and a new type of yeast is blended in to start another fermentation. The soy sauce then sits for several months or even years until it has reached maturity. Some modern companies age their light soy sauce for only a few days, adding hydrochloric acid to speed up the fermentation process. These quick soy sauces are less flavorful but are much cheaper to buy.

Lǎochōu: Chinese Dark Soy Sauce

Lǎochōu comes from the end of the pressing, at the bottom of the fermentation barrel. It’s rich in sediment and is meant to be used sparingly in combination with light soy sauce to add depth of flavor and a deep color. Chinese dark soy sauce is thicker and sweeter than Chinese light soy sauce, as it often contains added molasses. It does contain slightly more sodium than light soy sauce, but its flavor is primarily dominated by sweetness and is therefore not as intensely salty.

More on Chinese Cuisine: An Introduction to Chinese Dumplings

How to Use Chinese Soy Sauce

When deciding between light soy sauce and dark soy sauce, it's essential to consider the intended flavor profile and appearance of the dish. Light soy sauce is ideal for dishes where a delicate, salty flavor is desired, such as stir-fries, soups and dipping sauces. On the other hand, dark soy sauce shines in dishes where a richer, more caramelized flavor and darker color are desired, such as braised meats, noodle dishes and marinades.

In some cases, both light and dark soy sauces may be used together to achieve a balanced flavor profile and color. This is particularly common in recipes that call for “hóngshāo,” or red-cooking, where meats are simmered in a mixture of light and dark soy sauces, along with other seasonings, to create a dish with a deep, savory-sweet flavor and a glossy, mahogany-colored sauce.

Japan: Shoyu, A Testament to Precision and Elegance

Although originating in ancient China, the art of soy sauce was brought to Japan sometime in the 7th century, where it has then become one of the most valued ingredients of Japanese cuisine. Emphasizing meticulousness and a deep respect for tradition, Japanese soy sauce, known as shoyu, embodies a refined artistry. Similar to Chinese soy sauce, shoyu comes in two primary variations: koikuchi (dark) and usukuchi (light).

Types of Japanese Soy Sauce

Koikuchi Shoyu: Japanese Dark Soy Sauce

With its robust flavor and deep brown color, koikuchi shoyu serves as the quintessential choice for enhancing a dish. It is the most popular soy sauce variation that most consumers will pick in the grocery store, as brands such as Kikkoman have dominated the soy sauce market.

One of the key features of koikuchi soy sauce is its versatility. It is used in a wide range of dishes, from marinades and simmered dishes to dipping sauces and stir-fries. Its deep color and intense flavor add depth and complexity to dishes, becoming the most well-known example of the famed “umami” flavor. Whether drizzled over sushi and sashimi or incorporated into the savory broth of ramen, koikuchi soy sauce adds a salty, savory undertone to every dish.

Usukuchi shoyu: Japanese Light Soy Sauce

Usukuchi shoyu offers a lighter, more delicate flavor profile in contrast to Japanese dark soy sauce, making it well-suited for dishes where a milder taste is desired. Made from the same base ingredients as koikuchi soy sauce but with a shorter fermentation period and higher salt content, usukuchi soy sauce boasts a pale color and a gentle, yet complex taste.

One of the primary uses of usukuchi soy sauce is in dishes where color preservation is essential, such as delicate soups, clear broths and pickled vegetables. Its light color allows the natural colors of ingredients to shine through, while its subtle umami notes enhance the overall flavor of the dish without overpowering it.

How is Japanese Soy Sauce Made?

The magic of shoyu lies in the intricate brewing of soybeans, wheat, salt and a special mold — koji (Aspergillus oryzae). This fuzzy friend plays a crucial role in breaking down starches and proteins in soybeans, leading to the development of sugars and amino acids that are consumed by the yeast. The yeast, which is grown using steamed grains such as rice or wheat, converts these sugars into alcohol and organic acids, contributing to the flavor profile and acting as a natural preservative. This becomes the starter for the fermentation process, whereafter being formed into a mixture with the soybean and wheat paste. This mixture, known as “moromi,” is then transferred to tanks or barrels to continue fermenting. This may sound very similar to the Chinese soy sauce brewing methods, but each cuisine carries important differences such as fermentation time or additional ingredients that vastly change the final flavors of their soy sauces.

In some traditional soy sauce production methods, a small amount of distilled alcohol may be added to the moromi mixture during fermentation. This addition of alcohol, known as the “honjozo” method, can help enhance flavor extraction, improve shelf stability and achieve a more balanced flavor profile in the final soy sauce product. However, not all soy sauce producers use the honjozo method, and there are many soy sauces produced without added alcohol.

Different regions in Japan utilize specific koji strains, each with its own subtle influence on the final product. For instance, the shoyu produced in the Tohoku region is known for its sharper flavor profile, attributed to the use of a specific koji strain called "tame koji."

More on Japanese Cuisine: An Introduction to Common Types of Japanese Noodles

Korea: Ganjang, A Bold Fusion of Tradition and Innovation

In the dynamic realm of Korean cuisine, soy sauce takes on a bold and assertive persona, infusing dishes with a complexity of flavor that reflects the country's rich culinary heritage. Known as “ganjang,” Korean soy sauce encompasses two primary iterations: guk-ganjang (soup soy sauce) and jin-ganjang (fermented soy sauce).

Seafood dishes cooked using ganjang. Derivative work: Caspian blue (talk)Korean.cuisine-Ganjang_gejang_and_banchan-01.jpg: by LWY at flickr, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Types of Korean Soy Sauce

Guk-ganjang: Soup Soy Sauce

With its mild and salty profile, guk-ganjang forms the foundation of many traditional Korean soups, stews and braised dishes. It is also used as a seasoning agent in marinades, dipping sauces and stir-fries, where its soft umami flavor enhances the natural taste of ingredients and brings out their full potential.

Although this soy sauce is lighter in color and saltier when compared to Japanese soy sauce, it’s used very similarly to usukuchi.

Jin-ganjang

Jin-ganjang is a darker and richer soy sauce that boasts a more intense flavor profile. Known as "fermented soy sauce" in English, jin-ganjang is prized for its complex aroma and deep umami taste, making it a cornerstone of Korean seasoning.

The name "jin-ganjang" reflects its traditional fermentation process, which involves aging the soy sauce for an extended period in comparison to guk-ganjang to allow its flavors to mature and develop. This aging process imbues jin-ganjang with a robust and nuanced taste that elevates the flavors of any dish it touches.

Jin-ganjang's versatility is similar to guk-ganjang, although for different flavor profiles. Whether drizzled over sizzling bulgogi, mixed into a spicy gochujang sauce or used to season a hearty galbijjim, jin-ganjang adds depth and strong richness to every bite.

How is Korean Soy Sauce Made?

While Korean soy sauce shares some common ingredients with Japanese and Chinese soy sauces, the proportions and specific types of ingredients used can vary. Korean soy sauce typically contains a higher proportion of soybeans compared to Chinese soy sauce, resulting in a richer and more earthy flavor. Additionally, Korean soy sauce may use a higher proportion of salt compared to Japanese soy sauce, giving it a saltier taste.

Korean soy sauce is traditionally fermented through natural processes and relies on a critical ingredient: Meju.

Meju is made with cooked soybeans that are mashed and formed into blocks or patties, which are then inoculated with mold spores. If that sounds familiar, it is because it is — the mold spores used are, in fact, koji. Meju helps kick-start the fermentation process and contributes to the unique flavor profile of Korean soy sauce. After fermentation, Korean soy sauce may undergo additional aging and maturation to further develop its flavor and aroma. It is often aged in large clay pots or wooden barrels, allowing it to mellow and mature over time. This aging process contributes to the complexity and depth of flavor found in Korean soy sauce.

While traditional methods of soy sauce production continue to thrive in Korea, there is also a growing trend toward innovation and experimentation. Modern producers are exploring new techniques and ingredients to create soy sauces that cater to contemporary tastes and preferences. Some producers are incorporating organic and locally sourced ingredients, while others are experimenting with different fermentation methods or aging processes. The result is a diverse range of soy sauces that reflect the dynamism and creativity of modern Korean cuisine, while still honoring the traditions of the past.

The Philippines: Toyo, The Strongest Soy Sauce

Unsurprisingly, soy sauce plays a central role in the country's distinctive cuisine. Filipino soy sauce, called toyo, features a rich, savory profile with a hint of sweetness. This reflects the country's unique blend of indigenous and colonial influences. Unlike its counterparts, toyo boasts a bold flavor that matches the intensity of Filipino dishes, creating robust flavor combinations.

What is Filipino Soy Sauce?

Dark and luscious, Filipino soy sauce lends its distinctive character to iconic dishes like adobo (braised meat in soy sauce, vinegar, garlic and peppercorns). The addition of coconut sugar or molasses to toyo contributes a hint of sweetness, creating a perfect balance with the savory depth of the soy sauce. This soy sauce is thinner, saltier and slightly tangier than its other soy sauce counterparts. The interplay of sweet, salty, sour and savory flavors is a hallmark of Filipino cuisine, and toyo serves as the essential ingredient that ties these elements together.

The interplay of sweet, salty, sour and savory flavors is a hallmark of Filipino cuisine, and toyo serves as the essential ingredient that ties these elements together.

Although this Filipino soy sauce may sound similar to previously discussed soy sauces, it is missing a key ingredient: wheat. Traditionally, toyo is a wheat-free soy sauce, making it a great alternative for those with gluten sensitivities.

Just as Kikkoman is the name-brand for Japanese soy sauce, Datu Puti is the Filipino household soy sauce. When making adobo, sinigang or even lumpia, Datu Puti is the brand most easily recognized for Filipino soy sauce.

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Soy Sauce and Modernity: A Look Towards the Future

As the world continues to evolve, so too does the production and consumption of soy sauce.

Modern production techniques have introduced new methods to accelerate the brewing process. Techniques like hydrolyzed vegetable protein (HVP) can be used to create soy sauce in a matter of days. HVP is a concentrated form of protein that is broken down into amino acids, which contribute to the umami flavor of soy sauce.

While these methods offer increased efficiency and affordability, traditionalists argue that they lack the depth and complexity of flavor achieved through slow fermentation. Although some argue that these modernized brewing variations lessen the quality of the final produce, they also allow for an expansion of affordable accessibility to this iconic ingredient. Most soy sauce brands will offer both traditional and modernized brewing variations of their soy sauces, labeled as such on their bottles, allowing consumers to decide which they prefer to cook with.

Soy Sauce Sustainability

With increasing concerns about sustainability when choosing the right ingredients, soy sauce producers are exploring ways to minimize their environmental impact by using organic soybeans, reducing water consumption during production and implementing energy-efficient practices. Producers are experimenting with new ingredients, fermentation techniques and aging processes to create unique flavor profiles. These advancements cater to evolving consumer preferences and offer exciting possibilities for the future of soy sauce.

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From its humble origins in China to its diverse regional variations, soy sauce has become an integral part of countless cuisines and cultures. Although this guide discussed several variations of soy sauces, this is only a generalized introduction, as there are even more specialized types of soy sauces within each cuisine that go further in complexity and flavors.

Soy sauce has become a testament to human ingenuity, a symbol of cultural exchange and a delicious addition to countless dishes.

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