Shannon Mason

Your Ticket to Taco Paradise: 91��߹ Dives Into Dos Caminos

ohoadmin — Fri, 20 Jun 2014 18:40:17 +0000

Your Ticket to Taco Paradise: 91��߹ Dives Into Dos Caminos ohoadmin Fri, 06/20/2014 - 14:40 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Your%20Ticket%20to%20Taco%20Paradise%2091��߹%20Dives%20Into%20Dos%20Caminos_1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=8u8YucYc June 20, 2014

By Shannon Mason

It’s always a privilege when we can invite our alumni back to 91��߹ to share their professional expertise with our students, including those in recreational cooking classes. Recently we welcomed back Ivy Stark, a 1995 graduate of 91��߹’s Culinary Arts program, and currently the Corporate Executive Chef of Dos Caminos, a critically-acclaimed restaurant with several locations in New York City as well as New Jersey and Florida.

Chef Ivy Stark (right) with fellow 91��߹ alum Jackie Ourman (Culinary Arts '13).

The restaurant thrives on her creative vision, featuring a menu of Mexican cuisine with a modern twist. Far from your typical plates of rice and beans, it is an elegant take on this popular cuisine. Needless to say, 91��߹ is always looking to feature the most innovative chefs, and there are few better suited than Ivy to share a fresh take on the classic taco.

Ivy's class focused on three dishes from her recently-published cookbook, Dos Caminos Tacos: 100 Recipes for Everyone’s Favorite Mexican Street Food. She led us through the preparation of a three-course menu featuring a Watercress, Jicama and Orange Salad; Baja-style Mahi Mahi Tacos with Citrus-Cucumber Relish; and Prickly Pear Tres Leches.

What I love best about Mexican cuisine is the fresh combination of cilantro, fresh citrus, and jalapeño, and Ivy showed us how to maximize the flavors of all our ingredients. For example, she showed me how to supreme an orange—slicing in-between the membrane so the wedges separate from the bitter white ends. This allows the citrus juices to escape from the segments, providing extra moisture, flavor, and even color to dishes like the Watercress, Jicama and Orange Salad we prepared.

Ivy demonstrates how to supreme an orange.

In addition to providing tips to bring out the most flavor from our ingredients, Ivy also showed us a number of clever time-saving techniques. One of the most useful we learned that night involved my favorite herb: cilantro. I used to dread any recipe that called for whole cilantro leaves, as picking off each leaf one by one is such a tedious task. From Ivy, I learned to position my knife at an angle close to the cutting board to shave the cilantro leaves from the stems in one easy motion, making this task a quick and painless step in my mise en place.

My favorite trick of the night was the way Ivy de-seeded the jalapeños. Have you ever handled a jalapeño and, even after washing your hands, still found that the burning sensation made its way to your eyes? Fans of coconut oil—add one more awesome tip to your list: after cutting the jalapeños or chiles, rub some coconut oil on your hands and then wash your hands with soap and water. The compound responsible for the burning feeling, called capsaicin, is oil-soluble and loosens from your pores when coconut oil is massaged into your skin. Don’t have coconut oil? Running your hands through your hair—where natural oil is always readily available—produces a similar effect.

When it came time to eat, the main event was Ivy's Baja-style Mahi Mahi Tacos. But what does “Baja-style” mean? Compared to preparing tacos the way most Americans are used to—Tex-Mex-style, which smothers dishes in greasy melted cheese and heavy spices—Ivy’s tacos were all about light and fresh flavors from a variety of citrus juices, fresh herbs, and the natural heat of chiles and jalapeños. Even the texture was a game-changer, from the crispy beer-battered filets to a crunchy relish made with cucumbers, white cabbage, red onions, and more. However, those who missed the comforting Tex-Mex creaminess of sour cream or cheese found salvation in the chipotle aioli we prepared from scratch. With mayo, dill, garlic, lime, and chipotle purée, just a drizzle of this spicy and creamy red sauce is all you need.

A fresh take on the beloved and traditional tres leches was the perfect end to our meal. While one of my favorite desserts, its cream-white color does not do its flavors any justice—Ivy's recipe for Prickly Pear Tres Leches changes all that. Not only was the prickly pear purée a creative addition, it gave the dessert an attractive boost of color as well as an appealing, fruitier flavor. So now it's your turn to dive into Ivy's modern Mexican dishes: we're sharing her recipe for those delicious Baja-style tacos below, so test them out for yourself!

Baja-Style Mahi Mahi Tacos with Chipotle Aioli

Yield: Serves 4

Ingredients

8 (3-ounce) mahi mahi fillets (cod or pollock may be substituted)
oil for frying
1 cup flour
½ cup cornstarch
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup ice-cold Mexican beer, such as Tecate
1 teaspoon salt
8 (6-inch) corn tortillas
4 limes, quartered

Directions

Preheat a fryer or a deep pot, filled halfway with oil, to 375º F.
Sift together dry ingredients, then whisk in the beer.
Sprinkle the pieces of mahi mahi with the salt, then dip into prepared batter.
Deep-fry for about 3 minutes or until golden brown and cooked through.
Quickly warm the tortillas. Place one piece of mahi mahi on each tortilla, garnish with a little of the cucumber-citrus relish, and drizzle each taco with a tablespoon of the chipotle aioli hot sauce (recipe below).
Fold the tortillas in half. Place two tacos on each plate and serve warm with lime quarters.

Chipotle Aioli

1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons dill, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons chipotle puree

Purée in a blender until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Want to learn more secrets of the pros? Check out 91��߹'s recreational classes. Inspired by Ivy's recipes? Learn more about our culinary arts program.

Recipe Fish & Seafood Food Culture

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A Five-Course Vegan Dinner at 91��߹

ohoadmin — Tue, 22 Apr 2014 21:24:04 +0000

A Five-Course Vegan Dinner at 91��߹ ohoadmin Tue, 04/22/2014 - 17:24 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/A%20Five-Course%20Vegan%20Dinner%20at%2091��߹_1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=K60MuWcj April 22, 2014

By Shannon Mason

I find eating a plant-based diet extremely rewarding, but I’ll be the first to admit that it is especially challenging to do so during the colder months. Eating a raw crunchy salad never seems to sufficiently warm me up after a long commute through freezing puddles and heavy winds.

However, after taking 91��߹’s Five-Course Winter Vegan Dinner class with Chef Louisa Shafia, author of the IACP nominated Lucid Food: Cooking for an Eco-Conscious Life and The New Persian Kitchen, I have found that vegan cuisine can be just as warming as the heartiest of meat dishes.

Pomegranate Soup

Louisa’s passion for Persian and Iranian cuisine, coupled with her love of produce-driven and eco-friendly cuisine, was evident in the recipes she chose for our class. All of the dishes were varied in texture, vibrant in color and so delicious that there was no need to include fake meats and dairy substitutes. For those with an interest in adding meat, however, Chef Shafia mentioned that animal proteins typically used in Persian-Iranian cuisine could easily be worked into any of the recipes we made.

Our Tamarind Beet Glaze--tangy and delicious!

Exploring unfamiliar ingredients is always my favorite part of any cooking class, especially those used in vegan and international dishes. My first encounter with tamarind paste was unforgettable. Blended with beet juice, this tangy-sweet mixture formed the Tamarind Beet Glaze, which we drizzled over the breaded Chickpea Cakes. I also tasted dulse – a reddish-brown, protein-packed sea plant – for the first time. Using tongs, this moist and chewy plant was quickly passed over the burner’s flame until lightly toasted. We then added it as a garnish on our Red Cabbage, Apple and Dulse Salad.

Chef Louisa demonstrates how to loosen the seeds in a pomegranate by whacking it with a wooden spoon.

Perhaps the strangest ingredient I encountered was agar-agar powder—a clear, tasteless substance that originates from sea vegetables and is also known as “kanten”. When mixed with water, it becomes a thickening agent for fruit, pies and jams, like gelatin. This formed the base of our Pear Kanten with Pecan Crunch dessert.

De-seeding the pomegranates.

Cooking ingredients from scratch often comes with labor-intensive preparations, but by learning the proper skills and techniques, it doesn’t have to be a chore. Chef Louisa took time to show us the various qualities of agar-agar powder, as well as how to break down an enormous, stubborn butternut squash, which we roasted for the Mediterranean Shepherd’s Pie. We also learned how to cut open a pomegranate without squirting its red juice all over the kitchen (cut the fruit in half and whack the back of it with a wooden spoon; the seeds drop out effortlessly).

From left: Red Cabbage, Apple and Dulse Salad; Chickpea Cakes Drizzled with Tamarind Beet Glaze.

Pomegranate proved to be the star ingredient in this class, finding a home in nearly every recipe we made. It became a delicious garnish, when paired with cilantro, for my favorite dish of the night—the pomegranate soup. Rich in color, spices, legumes and of course, pomegranates, this soup ended my search for a wholesome, warming vegan dish. I loved it so much, I asked Chef Louisa to share the recipe with you. I encourage you to try making this at home as cool weather lingers in these early spring months.

Pomegranate Soup

Yield: Serves 6 to 8. Ingredients:

3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
¾ cup split peas
½ cup lentils
½ cup dried mung beans
½ cup pearled barley
1 large beet, peeled and diced small
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons ground cumin
12 cups vegetable stock or water
½ cup pomegranate molasses
1 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Seeds of 1 pomegranate

To make the soup, heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium heat and cook the onion for about 10 minutes until it starts to brown. Add the garlic, split peas, lentils, mung beans, barley, beet, turmeric, cumin, and stock, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for about 1½ hours, until the beans and barley are tender and the soup is slightly thickened.
Add the pomegranate molasses to the soup. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in the cilantro. Ladle into bowls and garnish with the pomegranate seeds.

Vegan Healthy Winter

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Learning to Love Lambrusco with Joe Campanale

ohoadmin — Wed, 03 Jul 2013 20:55:05 +0000

Learning to Love Lambrusco with Joe Campanale ohoadmin Wed, 07/03/2013 - 16:55 July 3, 2013

By Shannon Mason

Before working at 91��߹, I had attended wine classes, but never had Lambrusco been on the menu. But after taking a class called “How to Love Lambrusco” with Joe Campanale, I feel cheated for never being given the opportunity to taste this unusual wine!

Campanale is the Executive Beverage Director for Epicurean Management and co-owner of restaurants dell’anima, L’Artusi, Anfora, and L’Apicio. His expertise gave me a better appreciation for this unique and versatile wine.

Originating from the Emilia-Romagna region in Italy, the Lambrusco grape is highly valued for its high-yield and productivity. All strains of Lambrusco are indigenous to the region and are not allowed to be cloned or sub-cloned, meaning any beverage by the same name is guaranteed to be from Emilia-Romagna. In the US, Lambrusco was actually the biggest selling import wine in the 1970’s and 1980’s, but it was cheaply produced and tasted very sweet. In 1995, new brands came to the US with improved quality, leading to its growth in respected stores and on restaurant menus. Given of the grape’s high yield, it remains an affordable wine, but no longer should be considered “cheap.”

Using the Charmat process, Lambrusco is fermented a second time in pressurized tanks, creating larger bubbles that fade over a short period of time, contrary to champagne whose smaller bubbles are created when yeast and sugar ferment in the bottle. Its variety of flavors range from bone dry (secco)to off-dry/sweet (Amabile) and very sweet (dolce). That said, the Lambrusco grape itself is not particularly sweet. When secco/Amabile, the wine offers strawberry notes and a slight bitter finish. Because of its high acidity, Lambrusco is best paired with cuisines rich in oil or fat, cleansing the palate between bites.

Under Campanale's guidance, we sampled eight different Lambruscos, each having their own distinct flavor and personality. I certainly did love Lambrusco's crisp, vibrant taste and the fact that its relatively low (11%) alcohol content means that I can enjoy more of it! Summer is the perfect time to discover this refreshing wine, and I look forward to sipping it on a warm day in the sun.

Wine Demos & Lectures

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Inspiring Student: Jonathan Horn

ohoadmin — Wed, 26 Jun 2013 21:37:24 +0000

Inspiring Student: Jonathan Horn ohoadmin Wed, 06/26/2013 - 17:37 June 26, 2013

By Shannon Mason

25-year-old Jonathan Horn isn’t afraid of working hard—or taking risks. After dedicating 6 years to the pursuit of a medical career, he’s now logging long hours at 91��߹, as a dual Culinary Arts and Culinary Management major. Inspired by the joy his grandparents—both Holocaust survivors—brought to the table, Jon exudes an incredible passion and appreciation for the kitchen. We sat down with him to learn more about his path to 91��߹:

What inspired you to enroll in culinary school?

Every interaction I’ve had with my grandparents at the dinner table and in the kitchen paved my path toward culinary school. They are both immigrants from Eastern Europe and, having survived the Holocaust, came here with nothing. The notion of having a simple, filling meal with their family gathered is the most gratifying experience for them.

As a child, I don’t think I quite grasped what was going on in my grandfather’s head when he would say, “Eat’em up.” in broken English at each and every single meal. Or why my grandmother would cook these amazing meals with every grandchild’s favorite dish, and then just stare at us with a huge smile on her face without even thinking of eating her own food. My family’s best experiences always revolved around a lavish meal, and frivolity always ensued.

Over time, I really began to understand and cherish these meals. I don’t think anything can beat a good plate of food and a nice glass of wine. It really brings people together. My grandfather worked as a cook seriously into his 80’s. I think he always dreamed of having his own place, and I really want to fulfill his dream. At the same time, I want to provide that same convivial atmosphere for others—to have fun, celebratory, and sometimes more meaningful experiences, just like my grandparents offered me at their dinner table.

Has entering the culinary field always been a dream of yours? If not, what was your career goal before coming to 91��߹?

Despite having loved food my entire life, I never considered a career in it as being remotely plausible or practical. I actually intended on becoming a doctor. Most of my family works in the healthcare field; both my parents are doctors, my brother is a doctor, and my sister is pursuing a PhD in public health. Watching surgery as a kid excited me and the sciences interested me, so I always thought I could be good at it.

Yet, at the end of the day—and years of exploring the medical field—I realized that medicine had always been a practical decision and not one that I genuinely felt an internal excitement toward. So despite having studied premedical sciences for four years, worked in orthopedic research for two years, and succeeded on my MCATS, I decided to throw it all aside. Instead, I moved on to something that has always filled me with joy and excitement: working with food. I definitely learned a lot about myself over those years, and I can genuinely say now that I have no regrets about changing careers and delving into this brand new world.

What has been the most memorable part of your 91��߹ experience?

On my second day of school, I attended a demonstration by Rudy Weid where he broke down an entire lamb. I walked into the room, and there was this huge lamb, completely untouched, just sitting on the counter! Watching him break down this completely intact animal into that lamb chop you would serve on a plate was really special.

It gave me a greater appreciation of where our food comes from and the whole process required to get to that finished plate. I’ve always really appreciated the idea of starting with simple ingredients in their original form and creating something more complex which showcases their potential. Following that demonstration with two weeks of intensive training in meat, poultry, and fish fabrication was really memorable.

Jon cooked alongside Chef Nate Appleman at this year's James Beard Awards.

What has been your proudest moment or biggest accomplishment at 91��߹?

I think working at the James Beard House for Chef Nemo Bolin’s dinner event has been my proudest moment. I was on my feet the entire day, prepping for the event, working the stoves, pulling sheet pans full of food to and from the oven, and plating dishes—and it was the first time I was given a lot of responsibility in the kitchen. I think Chef Bolin took notice of my inquisitiveness and desire to work hard, so he really involved me in the whole cooking process.

Despite standing for 12 hours straight in the tiny, cramped kitchen of the Beard House, I felt exhilarated afterward. Chef then invited me out for a fantastic night of spectacular food and cocktails to celebrate the event’s success. That was the first time I proved to myself and saw that, despite having little practical experience, my passion and hard work would pay off in a real kitchen setting.

What experiences have been difficult or challenging for you to overcome?

I actually grew up in an Orthodox Jewish family and community, where kosher dietary laws are strictly observed. I currently maintain a kosher kitchen in my household. Dairy and meat cannot be cooked or eaten together, so we have separate pots, pans, and dishes for dairy and for meat. Only certain animals are considered kosher, and those meats have to be slaughtered under specific guidelines (making kosher meat really expensive!).

Although I do taste the food I cook in school, I can’t practice many of the techniques I learn at home. I can’t even use butter in any meat preparations! So finding alternative ingredients while still applying the same techniques has been challenging but fun. It’s also been difficult for some family and friends to understand and for me to explain to them that I’m pursuing this career path despite the potential conflicts with my religion. It’s been a great few months, with a ton to learn every day and a lot of intensive work between the two programs…much more than I had expected! But it has been extremely gratifying and fun working so hard.

What are your goals after graduating from 91��߹?

My ultimate goal is to open my own restaurant as executive chef-owner.

Do you have a personal motto or mantra that motivates you?

Find a job you love, and you’ll never have to work a day in your life.

We’ll agree with that!

Alumni

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Decadent Vegan Breakfast with Adam Sobel of the Cinnamon Snail

ohoadmin — Sat, 01 Jun 2013 14:30:55 +0000

Decadent Vegan Breakfast with Adam Sobel of the Cinnamon Snail ohoadmin Sat, 06/01/2013 - 10:30 June 1, 2013

By Shannon Mason

It was exactly one year ago, this month, that I made the decision to start consuming a plant-based vegan diet. Eating vegan is challenging in today’s culture, but not impossible. Usually all I have to say is “hold the cheese” when ordering at restaurants, but breakfast foods are a different story. I remember the day when my dad took me our favorite diner for breakfast and I realized the only thing vegan I could order was black coffee and hash browns—that is, if they weren’t cooked in butter.

Because most traditional breakfast foods like pancakes, parfaits and pastries consist of animal products, I find eating a gourmet vegan breakfast to be the most challenging. So I was thrilled to be a part of Adam Sobel’s “Decadent Vegan Breakfast” recreational cooking class here at 91��߹. Adam is the founder of the award-winning Cinnamon Snail truck, a restaurant on wheels that parks around Manhattan and serves gourmet treats like crème brûlée donuts and fresh plum pancakes. Needless to say, breakfast is not a problem for Adam. His decadent breakfast menu consisted of:

Dandelion Greens with Lemon Garlic Potatoes

Maple Mustard Breakfast Seitan Strips

Vanilla Sesame Milk

Bourbon Pecan Pancakes with Ginger Stout Syrup and Cardamom Butter

In the class we learned how to use nutrient dense ingredients like coconut oil, whole grain mustard and even dandelion greens, which Adam said can be picked straight from some backyards! He was passionate about every ingredient we used and took the time to explain both their health benefits and how they are used for his own Cinnamon Snail creations.

Vegan pancakes, seitan strips and dandelion greens with potatoes.

When it comes to teaching, Adam is quirky, easy going and truly happy to be sharing his experience with clean vegan cooking. His goal is to use “not crazy” ingredients, as he puts it, that our bodies can easily recognize and digest properly. Vegan or not, the dishes we prepared can be enjoyed by anyone who appreciates the taste and nutritional value of whole foods. In fact, I am willing to bet that if a stranger off the street sat down to eat with us, they would never have known the food didn’t contain animal products—which is the whole point!

My favorite recipe was the Maple Mustard Breakfast Seitan Strips, made of seasoned vegetables combined with vital wheat gluten, fried (or baked) to a crispy golden brown and smothered in a bittersweet sticky glaze. It sounded scary at first, but not after I learned that every ingredient can be found in nearly every household kitchen. Better yet, every ingredient is derived from plants! Everyone had fun forming the doughy mixture into strips and taking turns dropping them in the skillet.

The Vanilla Sesame Milk was my second favorite recipe. I never understood how “milk” can be made from a nut or seed and I’ve always wanted to learn how to make it. All it took to create this creamy sweet calcium-rich beverage was soaking the seeds, blending them at high speeds with other ingredients, and then straining the liquid through a mesh strainer.

We even learned tips on what to do with the leftover pulp so nothing is wasted. It is one thing to know how to cook vegan, but a completely different experience when you actually understand why certain ingredients work better in vegan cooking than others. Adam provided our class with valuable information and skills that I can integrate into my own lifestyle...and that I can use to fool my friends and family into eating a delicious vegan meal.

Give the Vanilla Sesame Milk a try at home. It's much easier than it sounds. Plus one cup of sesame milk has a whopping 1,400 mg. of calcium, a great alternative to cow’s milk, which is a mere 290 mg. It also makes a great base for ice creams and milk shakes.

Vanilla Sesame Milk

Makes 1 quart

Ingredients:

2/3 cup unroasted sesame seeds
1 cup water
2 t. vanilla extract
1 T. coconut butter (natural unrefined)
3 T. maple syrup
1t. sea salt
3 cups water

Instructions:

Place the sesame seeds in the pitcher of a high-speed blender and cover them with 1 cup of water. Let the seeds soak for at least 20 minutes, or up to an hour. (This allows the seeds to expand making the blending process much smoother).
Blend the seeds and water at a high speed for 40 seconds. Add the remaining ingredients and blend for another 40 seconds until as smooth as possible.
Pour the sesame milk through a very fine mesh strainer or strainer bag to remove any grit. (At the class we used a Chinois, pronounced “Sheen-wah.”)

Vegan Breakfast Recipe Culinary Arts

Shannon Mason

Your Ticket to Taco Paradise: 91����߹ Dives Into Dos Caminos

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A Five-Course Vegan Dinner at 91����߹

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Learning to Love Lambrusco with Joe Campanale

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Inspiring Student: Jonathan Horn

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Decadent Vegan Breakfast with Adam Sobel of the Cinnamon Snail

Your Ticket to Taco Paradise: 91��߹ Dives Into Dos Caminos

A Five-Course Vegan Dinner at 91��߹