Shay Spence

The Signature Dishes of Betony

ohoadmin — Sat, 22 Feb 2014 15:30:06 +0000

The Signature Dishes of Betony ohoadmin Sat, 02/22/2014 - 10:30 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/THE%20SIGNATURE%20DISHES%20OF%20BETONY_1400x680.jpg.webp?itok=urUfPnad February 22, 2014

By Shay Spence

“Refined, yet approachable,” that is how Executive Chef Bryce Shuman describes the fare at his new upscale midtown hotspot, Betony.

Last week at 91��߹, recreational students got an inside look at the magic behind Betony's remarkable culinary creations in a class taught by Chef Shuman himself. While this is his first venture into the restaurant industry as an entrepreneur, Shuman is no stranger to the world of fine dining. An alum of Eleven Madison Park, he is known for his ability to achieve the perfect balance of distinct complexity and stunning simplicity in every dish, a talent that comes from years of experience and a very refined palate.

Foie Gras bon bons

Take, for example, the foie gras “bonbon.” What started as a creative way to use the trimmings froma different foie gras dish has become one of Betony's signature dishes in its own right (and it’s easy to see why). It's foie gras coated in candied nuts—what could go wrong? In their final form, these little bites look like something you might pick out from the display case at your local candy shop. When you take a bite, however, it is so much more. If the balance of flavors and textures a dish packs can be likened to a “symphony in your mouth,” this one is the Philharmonic. The crunchy sweetness of the nuts, married with the savory richness of the foie gras, creates a culinary experience that is one of my most memorable to date.

The secret to this success is careful attention to detail and the complexity of the process itself. The nuts undergo a thorough transformation: they are first cooked in simple syrup, cooled, deep fried until golden brown and crispy, cooled again, then chopped and mixed with spices. The foie gras itself is marinated in a Calvados mixture, cryovaced, then put in the fridge overnight. It comes out looking simple, but the flavor profile is anything but.

Grain Salad

Bold simplicity turned out to be a consistent theme in all of the dishes Shuman taught us to make. Even something as commonplace as a grain salad was elevated by using five different types of grains and dehydrating half of them to create a contrast in textures. (Shuman considers this one of best and most overlooked dishes on his menu, and I would have to agree.)

Some other treats from the night: marinated trout roe on rice crackers, beef tongue with teff and mustard

The signature dishes of Betony can be summed up as a perfect balance of complexity and simplicity. Shuman wanted to create an atmosphere and menu that could appeal to the masses, yet still satisfy even the most critical food snobs (which he seems to have achieved, earning a coveted three-star rating in the New York Times.) His culinary expertise and approachable demeanor was a pleasure to witness, and by the end of the class, everyone came out with a greater understanding of the intricacies that go into creating a truly unique fine dining experience.

To find out more about cooking classes with guest chefs at 91��߹, visit recreational.ice.edu.

Demos & Lectures

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Pastry Problems

ohoadmin — Fri, 14 Feb 2014 14:28:46 +0000

Pastry Problems ohoadmin Fri, 02/14/2014 - 09:28 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Pretzels.jpg.webp?itok=7e5zjUU0 Life as a Culinary Student February 14, 2014

By Shay Spence

In culinary school, there exists a great divide that all comes down to one crucial distinction: are you savory or sweet? Here at 91��߹, students fall into one of these categories, dependent upon whether they choose the culinary or pastry career track.

As a Culinary Arts student for the past five months, I can tell you that the differences between us boil down to a lot more than just sugar and salt. Pastry students are refined. They are meticulously detail-oriented. They are studying a science. We culinary students tend to be a little more...“rough-around the edges.” We deviate from recipes. We like to get creative.

Chef Gerri gives a demo on tempering chocolate

When Module 4 came around this January and my fellow culinary arts comrades and I were faced with pastry classes, we were all a little bit concerned. A group of savory-loving cooks embarking on a month-long journey of baking and sweets is like unleashing a pack of rabid hyenas on the Westminster Dog Show. Something was bound to go horribly wrong.

Fortunately, we all managed to behave ourselves and actually learn a thing or two. While we all spouted the typical “I’m not the ‘baking’ type” excuse at the beginning, we soon realized that this was a cop-out.

To be a well-rounded cook, you must know the fundamentals of pastry. After all, it’s not just sweets that fall under this umbrella; our curriculum included pretzels, bagels, pizza dough, focaccia and a multitude of other savory concoctions that every chef should have in his or her repertoire. Plus, we got to play with chocolate, which is super fun.

While our pastry days were definitely enjoyable, they were not always a “piece of cake.” In fact, whoever came up with the phrase “piece of cake” has obviously never tried to ice a layer cake with a chocolate ganache frosting. I won’t even burden you with a picture of that grand disaster.

By the end of the module, our class may have been a little sugared-out, but we certainly felt accomplished. We had experienced how the “other half” lives, ventured outside of our culinary comfort zone and didn’t fail miserably. To me, that is pretty sweet.

Pastry Arts Culinary Arts Baking Arts

Life as a Culinary Student: The Art of Plating

ohoadmin — Mon, 13 Jan 2014 21:29:13 +0000

Life as a Culinary Student: The Art of Plating ohoadmin Mon, 01/13/2014 - 16:29 January 13, 2014

By Shay Spence

In the culinary world, it is often said that we eat with our eyes first. If something doesn’t look appetizing, people won’t want to eat it, regardless of whether the flavor is on point. You know when you are scrolling through Facebook, minding everybody else's business and are suddenly bombarded with a picture of some blurry, washed-out mess on a plate? “Home-cooked dinner!”, the caption proudly boasts. I’m sure your spinach lasagna tastes great, Aunt Susan, but right now, it looks like the Wicked Witch of the West just melted into a puddle on your plate.

A portion of 91��߹'s Culinary Arts curriculum involves learning how not to be that person. The final week of Module 3 is dedicated to one thing: plating. Sure, you learn delicious new recipes using spectacular ingredients (hello, foie gras!), but for once, the primary focus is on presentation, not flavor.

Shrimp salad with carrot-ginger puree and cilantro oil

Part of working in a kitchen, particularly that of a fine dining establishment, is paying meticulous attention to detail while keeping up with the fast-pace of a restaurant—a balance so difficult to achieve, it feels almost contradictory. Each plate must be flawlessly beautiful, then replicated over and over and over again.

Pan-roasted venison with butternut squash two ways and maitake mushrooms

During this third Module, my classmates and I got our first taste of plating under intense pressure and the difficulty and excitement that come along with it. We went through the components that make up a dish, all revolving around the concept of "balance"—balance of texture, color, shape, and (of course) flavor.

This balance is what differentiates a "nice" dish from a "spectacular" dish. As our chef-instructor taught us on the first day, it should look like all the elements of the plate fell from the sky and landed exactly in the right spot. The average diner might not notice the balance of these four components when done right, but will certainly take notice when they are done wrong.

Hamachi crudo with roasted beets and wasabi cream

While I was initially unenthused by the prospect of spending a week learning how to put food on a plate (how hard can it be?), it turned out to be one of my favorite weeks in culinary school thus far. There is something very rewarding about taking the various components of a dish—all of which you have worked hard to prepare—and combining them into a beautiful and cohesive creation.

These are the practical skills that my classmates and I need to succeed in the culinary industry, not to mention our social media lives. After this week, I am confident I'll never find myself pulling an Aunt Susan!

Food Media Culinary Arts Tools Culinary Student

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Spending Time at the NYC Wine and Food Festival

ohoadmin — Tue, 19 Nov 2013 22:12:02 +0000

Spending Time at the NYC Wine and Food Festival ohoadmin Tue, 11/19/2013 - 17:12 Life as a Culinary Student November 19, 2013

By Shay Spence

Every so often, I am presented with a life-affirming reminder of why I decided to pursue my culinary career in New York City. One of these moments came late last month, when I was given the opportunity to be a culinary volunteer at the NYC Wine and Food Festival. Yes, the Wine and Food Festival. The Super Bowl of gastronomic delights.

Chicken liver mousse quinelles with granola and finger limes

In previous years, I have spent this same weekend glued to my twitter feed in a jealous rage, following along as my favorite celebrity chefs hobnob with each other, posting blurry cell phone photos of beautiful, unattainable plates of food all along the way. Why can’t that be me? I’d wonder, as I visited the festival website for the billionth time, hoping that, by some miracle, the price tag had dropped ten thousand percent.

Not this year, though. This year I was determined to get in on all of this glamorous action. When 91��߹ sent me an email saying that the festival was looking for volunteers, I knew this would be the perfect opportunity to get my foot in the door, literally.

Me with The Lambs Club crew after brunch service

The day started off with brunch at The Standard Hotel, put on by NYC restaurateur and Iron Chef Geoffrey Zakarian. I arrived early and teamed-up with Executive Chef Eric Haugen of Zakarian’s upscale Midtown establishment, The Lambs Club. Along with his sous chef and one of his line cooks, I helped plate hundreds of chicken liver mousse quenelles with granola and finger limes.

It was actually my first experience tasting chicken liver—something I had been hesitant to try (read: entirely freaked out by) since childhood. Clearly, I've been missing out. Oh, and those caviar looking spheres on top (otherwise known as finger limes)? Finger-licking delicious!

From there, I rushed across town to Pier 94 where the main portion of the festival was taking place. I was assigned to work at the Bobby Flay “Tacos and Tequila” tasting event. Jackpot. For the event, I was paired with Big Gay Ice Cream to execute their service. We immediately got to work, and spent the rest of the afternoon setting up.

Although I’m much more of a savory than a sweet kind of guy, working with the guys from Big Gay Ice Cream was the most fun I could have possibly had plating for thousands of people for three hours straight. Plus, my right arm got super buff from scooping all that ice cream.

Chipotle Chocolate Ice Cream with Orange Tequila Caramel and Pumpkin Seeds from Big Gay Ice Cream

All in all, it was one of the more memorable days I have had since moving to New York. I got to shake hands with the likes of Geoffrey Zakarian, Bobby Flay, and Andrew Zimmern. I worked closely with influential New York City chefs and culinary figures.

I made contacts and was offered trails, gained experience plating and executing service for thousands of people, and lastly, I made friends with fellow culinary student volunteers from across the region. These are the types of experiences you really can’t put a price tag on. Luckily, I didn’t have to!

Special Events Culinary Student Culinary Education

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The Signature Dishes of Alder with Chef John Bignelli

ohoadmin — Fri, 08 Nov 2013 21:51:17 +0000

The Signature Dishes of Alder with Chef John Bignelli ohoadmin Fri, 11/08/2013 - 16:51 November 8, 2013

By Shay Spence

When you hear terms like “modernist cuisine” or “molecular gastronomy,” it brings to mind visions of mad scientist-like chefs using fancy machines to create concoctions that you’re not sure if you're supposed to eat or see on display at the Museum of Modern Art. But for Chef John Bignelli of the East Village hotspot Alder, modernist cooking is anything but.

Instead, he crafts playful takes on classic, comfortable flavor, creating dishes that are brilliant and fascinating, but still familiar. This October, I was lucky enough to attend a recreational cooking class with Chef Bignelli at 91��߹, which featured his signature dishes. Pasta that tastes like a pastrami on rye? New England clam chowder with “oyster” crackers made from a puree of actual oysters? Yes, please.

Fresh pasta made with caraway seeds and served on house-made pastrami to emulate the flavors of a classic deli sandwich.

Chef Bignelli’s culinary career began in New York City fine dining establishment Aquavit, the Michelin-starred Nordic restaurant—whose kitchen, at the time, was headed up by Marcus Samuelsson—where he worked his way up to sous chef in just a few short years. In 2007, Bignelli switched gears by accepting a position at wd-50 under Wylie Dufresne, perhaps the most famous American chef in the realm of molecular gastronomy. It was here that his experience in classical technique merged with his eagerness to learn new methods, and working together with Wylie allowed him to execute some of the most innovative dishes New York had ever seen.

Chef Bignelli showing rec students how to pass a traditional hot dog bun through a pasta machine to make his take on “pigs in a blanket.”

With their new venture at Alder, Wylie and John were looking for a more simple and subtle approach, without losing their modernist edge. Bignelli describes the concept behind Alder as an “American version of a pub” – something he feels is new to the New York dining scene.

“Caesar Nigiri” made from salt-cured mackerel, egg yolk puree, Worcestershire glaze, honey garlic, and parmesan. All the flavors of a caesar salad in one small bite.

Over the course of four hours, students experienced a glimpse into the world of a truly innovative culinary mind, where techniques are not restricted to conventional ideas, but flavors still ring of nostalgia. The signature dishes of Alder merge the excitement of the new with the comfort of the old, and that is one recipe that keeps guests coming back.

For dessert: cheesecake-stuffed figs with graham cracker topping.

Chefs

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Life as a Culinary Student: Turning Up the Heat

ohoadmin — Tue, 22 Oct 2013 20:20:22 +0000

Life as a Culinary Student: Turning Up the Heat ohoadmin Tue, 10/22/2013 - 16:20 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/DSC_0384-2_resized_0.jpg.webp?itok=bcIqS4qM October 22, 2013

By Shay Spence

If you can’t control the heat, get out of the kitchen. A month and a half into my Culinary Arts program at 91��߹, this is undoubtedly the most important concept that I feel becoming ingrained in my being on a daily basis. “Are you checking your heat?” Chef will holler to the class every five minutes. “Remember: YOU control the heat; the heat does not control you!”

Chef Ana Sporer demonstrating how to get the perfect crust on her crab cake quinelles.

As my class has sailed (relatively) smoothly through the basic knife skills, stocks, and sauces of Module 1 and transitioned into the more serious cooking of Module 2, our days in the kitchen have become more heated, literally. Technique and attention to detail are now more important than ever.

We have covered the dry heat cooking methods of sautéing, grilling, pan-frying, and deep-frying; each one bringing its own set of nuances and challenges.

In sautéing or grilling a protein, for example, you need to have a high enough heat to get a nice brown crust on each side, but low enough that it will still cook through to your desired degree of doneness without burning the outside to char. When frying, an oil at too low of a temperature will result in a greasy, soggy, mess, and too high of heat brings us back to the problem of a burned outside with an uncooked inside.

Paillason de Pommes de Terre is a simple potato cake that requires precise control of the heat to create a golden exterior while cooking through all of the potatoes on the inside.

All of this, of course, seems fairly simple and perhaps obvious. I’ve been an avid cook for a few years, and liked to think I knew my way around a stove pretty well before coming to school. It’s different now, though. I’m training to become a professional. In this industry, consistency of quality is absolutely crucial. If I overcook a ribeye steak in my kitchen at home (which has happened more often than I care to admit), it’s kind of a bummer. If I do it in a restaurant kitchen, it is money you are throwing in the garbage and a customer you may have lost.

This is why I am in culinary school. It’s not just about learning how cook; it’s about learning how to think. How to develop instincts. How to multi-task. These are the skills that are mandatory in this business, and mastering them is what makes the difference between a decent chef and a great chef. “You’re not coming to school to learn how to read recipes,” our chef will say, “you’re coming to school to develop the instincts so you can create recipes.”

Beer Battered Fish and Chips

In just the two months I have been in school so far, I can feel this starting to happen. I am learning how to check the degree of doneness on a piece of meat just by feeling it--a chef’s trick that I could never quite grasp before.

I’m learning how to cook three things at once, get them on the plate at the same time, and create a beautiful presentation, all while maintaining a clean work space. Most importantly of all, I am learning to keep control of my heat. When you don’t realize that you are in control of the heat, you allow the heat and the pressure of the kitchen to control you.

Of course, these skills do not come overnight. It takes years of practice and constant repetition, but I can feel my roots starting to take hold. Before culinary school, I was cooking for fun; now I am cooking with a purpose--the purpose of becoming a great chef.

Grilling Culinary Student Culinary Education

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My Unlikely Decision to Embark on a Culinary Career

ohoadmin — Tue, 10 Sep 2013 21:20:35 +0000

My Unlikely Decision to Embark on a Culinary Career ohoadmin Tue, 09/10/2013 - 17:20 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/IMG_64111.jpg.webp?itok=rb1GEVcR Life as a Culinary Student September 10, 2013

By Shay Spence

This Labor Day marked the one-year anniversary of my unlikely decision to embark on a culinary career. The defining moment occurred in Colorado, when I was promoting my father's brand of hot sauce at a Whole Foods grand opening (a relatively recent side project to distract him from his other, ridiculously full-time job).

The pulled pork recipe I created with the sauce “on the fly” for our demo was—if I do say so myself—a major hit. Customers were coming back for seconds, thirds, and even fourths; they were buying jars of hot sauce by the cart-full and asking me for the step-by-step recipe. Even the butchers came over to personally congratulate us for selling them out of pork shoulder before one o’clock. My head was ginormous. I was addicted.

Dad and I on that day. I inherited a great deal of his ambitious spirit, and none of his flowing golden locks.

But I guess I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s go further back in time--say, two more years, shall we? A junior in college, I was majoring in Political Science with my sights set on law school. That fall, a friend invited me to a potluck dinner party, and I decide to bring mashed potatoes.

At the time, making mashed potatoes from actual potatoes was a foreign concept; I didn't even consider it an option! Instead, I reached for the year-old box of powdery flakes in the back of my pantry. Just add milk! Perfect.

Later that year, while grocery shopping with a friend, I wondered aloud: “What are these weird-looking little gizmos?" She stared at me, hoping I was joking, then quickly realized the sad reality: I wasn't able to identify garlic in its natural form, as I was used to seeing it solely in powdered form in my spice cabinet (which I then used as a secret flavor weapon for Easy Mac). To say I was inept in the culinary department is an egregious understatement.

Don’t get me wrong; I have always loved to eat. It’s just that, up until that point, I was more of a “first-name-basis-with-the-Chipotle-cashier” type of eater. My mother was an excellent cook, whipping up some of the best authentic Lebanese dishes you have ever tasted, but the process of how they appeared on the table was not something I took a particular interest in as a kid. (To completely honest, I preferred eating delivery pizza instead.)

Ultimately, it was the bizarre schedule I kept as a student that facilitated the discovery of my greatest passion. With random two-hour pockets of free time between classes, I discovered the glory of daytime food television. I know, I know--most of these cooking shows are not the epitome of culinary excellence. Most food snobs will denounce them as mindless entertainment, but with my barely rudimentary knowledge of the subject, it served as the perfect starting point.

From there, it became more than a hobby; it was an obsession. Nearly every moment of free time was spent consuming food-related media—from television, to blogs, magazines, books, and everything in between. I had a desire for knowledge that I had never felt in traditional schooling. And I was not only learning, I was doing. My roommates and I began holding regular Iron Chef-style cook-offs in our kitchen, each one of us trying to outdo the other with our culinary creations. Before I knew it, I was home in Texas on holiday break, serving my parents a four-course meal I had made from scratch, both to their delight and confusion.

Fast forward to that weekend in Colorado. I was on a cooking high like never before and had just finished reading Yes, Chef (the memoir of beloved New York chef Marcus Samuelsson). I was so taken with his story, and so completely enthralled by his vivid description of the many years of disciplined study and hard work--both inside and outside the kitchen--that he undertook in order to truly master the culinary craft. That was the moment I realized: this is the profession for me.

While some people advised me to skip culinary school and go straight to working my way up in a professional kitchen, I knew that was not the avenue I wanted to take. Getting a formal education would provide not only the foundational skills to put me on the right career track, but perhaps more importantly, it would give me the confidence in my own abilities that is so crucial for success in this field (or any field, for that matter).

To be sure I was making the right choice, I decided to spend a year working in the food industry. I trailed in various restaurant kitchens, worked in concession trailers, and continued creating recipes for cooking demos with my dad’s hot sauce. I also started my own food blog, where I developed and styled recipes inspired by pop cultural events, television, music, trends, and restaurants.

My aspirations grew to becoming not only chef, but also a teacher, using writing and various media platforms to convey the importance of food in a way that is relatable and interesting—even to people outside of the typical “foodie” crowd. After all, if it wasn’t for television, I would probably be eating mac and cheese out of a box and pulling my hair out in law school right now. Instead, I'm lucky enough to be in New York City, one week into my Culinary Arts program at 91��߹, and getting ready to start Culinary Management.

Having the chance to follow my dreams in one of the most exciting food cities in the world is a truly incredible opportunity, and I don't intend to take it for granted. I'm doing my best to soak it all in and take advantage of the vast opportunities that both the school and the city can offer me.

On my first day of class, the chef told us that this is a profession where you never stop learning, and I’m excited to be able to share the beginning stages of my education with you all.

Culinary Student Culinary Arts Culinary Education