D91ĂÛÌÒßčD has been sharing our interview with influential food writer Mark Bittman from the Winter 2012 issue of , our school newsletter. Bittman is the lead food writer for the New York Times Magazine and an opinion columnist for the New York Times, for which he began writing in 1990. Weâve already looked at his career and his outlook on the food system and our current diet.
Today, we are sharing his answers on how he brings his philosophy on food into the kitchen and into his work as a writer.
The first lines of your bio state âIâm not a chef, Iâve never been.â You are very adamant about that.
Itâs a bit of a holdover. When I first started doing public stuff, theyâd introduce me as Chef Mark Bittman and everybody was like, âOooooh, chefs, wow, how exciting.â It was the days of Emeril and it wasnât like now when there are 50 billion chefs out there. So they didnât know how to deal with somebody like me.
Iâd get signed up to teach cooking classes, or Iâd get signed up to give talks or whatever, and they didnât know what to do with me because very few people were doing it who werenât chefs, so they called me Chef Mark Bittman. Iâd get up there and Iâd say, âIâm not a chef,â and then I would talk about why everybody should cook; that chefs do one thing, but home cooks do another, and that itâs really important to be a home cook, and that there should a 100 million home cooks in this country.
In the time that youâve been talking about cooking and telling people they need to learn how to cook, have you seen an increase in the number of home cooks?
Thereâs no way to track it. I think that certainly in the â80s and â90s it was going down, and I think that now, itâs going up. Itâs hard to measure, but itâs also hard to believe that so many young people could be interested in farming and food co-ops and CSAs and all of that stuff and not be cooking. So anecdotally, it seems like itâs on the upswing.
Who is your audience?
I have four or five different audiences, so itâs very hard to say. Obviously, thereâs a devoted New York Times following: people whoâve read me for years and complain that Iâm not in on Wednesdays anymore; people who are like, âOh, itâs so great that youâre on Sundaysâ; people who are reading the opinion columns; and people who are saying, âAch, you should stick to recipes.â How to Cook Everything has sold over a million copies, so thereâs an audience of fans who really love How to Cook Everything.
I think thereâs an audience of fans who appreciate the political, who go beyond the Times, whoâve read Food Matters, whoâve seen me speak. And thereâs a bunch of people who watch me on the Today show, or who saw me travel in Spain with Mario [Batali] and Gwyneth [Paltrow] âI run into those people all the time. So I donât know. I can tell you that I get stopped on the street, and I get stopped by all kinds of people: by doormen, by professionals, by people in the subway, by people on Central Park West. It doesnât seem that I canât say that I have a bigger following among women than men; itâs not clear which way that goes.
But when you sit down to write, whom do you think about? Whom do you try to reach?
I only cook one way; itâs really simple. Occasionally I go cook with a chef and I replicate their stuff, but for the most part, Iâm really not coming up with that much thatâs new. Iâm coming up with new ways to show it and new ways to teach it and new ways to talk about it. Actually, I will take that back. The Food MattersCookbook was a departure.
What about for your op-ed pieces, rather than the recipes?
More and more, Iâm moving in the direction of doing recipes with less meat, recipes with no meat, exploring vegetarian and vegan traditions. The op-ed column, thatâs straight from the heart; thatâs what I want to say. I see it as an advocacy position and I see it as a call to action. Itâs not just describing a problem; I try to say what needs to be done about it. It all is geared to that thing that I just said, of discouraging the consumption of bad foodâthereâs a lot to write about thatâand encouraging the consumption of good foodâthereâs a lot to write about that. So it all stems from that tree, if you will. If you think about food, and then you think âbad/goodâ and all the little branches that grow off each of those sides, thatâs my work. And cooking and recipes is still a huge part of that.
In terms of discouraging and encouraging behaviors, is it a personal responsibility? Is it a policy issue? Is it a matter of corporate responsibility?
There are two ways of describing the problem and there are two ways of fixing the problem. One way of fixing the problem is you fix it yourself. And weâre lucky in food because you can go change your diet. But on the other hand, changing your diet doesnât affect too many other things. It affects you in a very positive way, and certainly if 50 million people became semi-vegans or flexitarians or less-meatarians or vegan-before-sixers, or whatever you want to call them, that would change things, but to change policies is generally a different story.
And how do you do that? It either has to happen because so many people do individual actions that itâs a de facto change, which I donât think is going to happen, but as much impact as that has is important impact. At the same time you get a decent Congress elected and you make some changes that way, and you try to make it unprofitable for big food companies to sell bad food, to make it unprofitable, for example, for McDonaldâs to use industrially-raised beef.
How do you do that? Do you boycott? Do a public relations campaign? If you make it so that CAFOs are more heavily regulated, you make it more difficult to sell bad food cheap, and if you canât sell bad food cheap, people are going to say, âYou know, I knew it wasnât good for me, but it was so cheap, it was irresistible.â Now if itâs not cheap, if that 99 cent or $1.49 or whatever it is cheeseburger costs $4.50, and you get some falafel next door thatâs halfway decent for the same price, you might think twice.
The ingredients in falafel may not necessarily come from better sources.
Okay, chopped salad. Howâs that?
Well, you could argue that there are issues with so many food groups.
Yes, but I think thatâs the wrong way to look at it, because the issue is not the source of the vegetable versus the source of the meat; the issue is the vegetable versus the meat. So I would say that if the choice were between a non-organic salad and an organic cheeseburger, youâre better off with the salad. And I think that thatâs important to remember, but thatâs rarely where the choice is. The choice is really not between a good hamburger and a bad hamburger; the choice is between a hamburger and a stir-fried vegetable dish, something like that.
What types of meats do you eat after six, and do you always â in restaurants, for example â ask where they got it from? Meaning, is there any hypocrisy in these choices?
Iâm not saying Iâm perfect and Iâm not saying that what I do is ideal. Iâm saying that what for me has worked has been to be vegan before six. For other people, whatâs important is that you move your diet towards a more plant-heavy diet. If that can be local, great; if that can be organic, fine.
But the most important thing is to go more plant-heavy, and Iâve done that. Do I tend to eat sustainable seafood and meat thatâs raised by real farmers? Yes, 80-90 percent of the time. Do I make a fetish of it? No. The thing is to choose your restaurants. So if youâre going to go into McDonaldâs, youâre going to eat bad food. If youâre going to go intoâI donât want to plug anybodyâbut if youâre going to go into a restaurant in New York where you know that theyâre doing good stuff, youâre going to eat good food.
But I donât sit around and say, âWhereâs this chicken from?â When I cook by myself, the stuff thatâs in my freezer or the stuff that I buy in the store, I generally know where itâs from. But when youâre eating out, putting yourself in someone elseâs hands? All bets are off.
Click here for Part I of our interview with Mark Bittman.
Click here for Part II.